Creole$$$$garden-district
Commander's Palace in New Orleans is the 1893 Garden District grande dame on Washington Avenue, the Brennan family flag with turtle soup, jacket-required brunch and quarter martinis.
Signature: Turtle soup, Pecan-crusted Gulf fish
Order: The turtle soup with sherry tableside. It has been on the menu since the dining room opened in 1893.
Tip: Book the upstairs Garden Room for the live courtyard view; the dress code requires collared shirts at dinner.
French Creole$$$french-quarter
Galatoire's in New Orleans is the 1905 white-tile French Creole room on Bourbon Street, where regulars hold the same Friday lunch tables and tip the captain by name.
Signature: Shrimp remoulade, Trout amandine
Order: The shrimp remoulade to start, then trout amandine. Order souffle potatoes alongside.
Tip: The downstairs room is walk-in only and no reservations; Friday lunch starts at 11:30 and runs into the evening.
French Creole$$$french-quarter
Antoine's in New Orleans is the 1840 St Louis Street dining room, the oldest family-run restaurant in the United States and the birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller.
Signature: Oysters Rockefeller, Pommes de terre souffles
Order: Oysters Rockefeller, invented here in 1899. Then the souffleed potatoes.
Tip: Skip the main dining room for the Hermes Bar on Bienville, the kitchen runs the same menu and the room is unstuffy.
French Creole$$$french-quarter
Arnaud's in New Orleans is the 1918 French Creole room on Bienville Street from Arnaud Cazenave, with mosaic-tile floors, the French 75 Bar next door and a Mardi Gras costume museum upstairs.
Signature: Shrimp Arnaud, Souffle potatoes
Order: Shrimp Arnaud, the house remoulade. Then redfish with Hollandaise.
Tip: The French 75 Bar serves the canonical version of its namesake drink and seats walk-ups; no jacket required there.
Cajun$$$warehouse-district
Cochon in New Orleans is Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski's James Beard winning Cajun room on Tchoupitoulas, an ode to whole-hog cookery in a converted Warehouse District building.
Signature: Louisiana cochon with cracklins, Wood-fired oysters
Order: The cochon with turnips and cracklins. Then the rabbit and dumplings.
Tip: Cochon Butcher around the corner sells the same charcuterie at a counter; cheaper and equally good for lunch.
Louisiana French$$$central-business-district
Herbsaint in New Orleans is Donald Link's 2000 St Charles Avenue flagship, a Louisiana French bistro with the streetcar passing the front window and a duck leg confit on the menu since opening.
Signature: Muscovy duck leg confit, Herbsaint shrimp and grits
Order: The Muscovy duck leg confit with dirty rice. Pair with a Sazerac.
Tip: Sit at the bar for the streetcar view and faster service; the kitchen sends the same plates.