Turtle soup is the dark, rich Creole soup of slow-simmered turtle meat, holy trinity, herbs and a sherry finish poured tableside. Mahogany broth, gentle clove, lemon at the edge.
Turtle soup arrived in New Orleans via French Creole cookery and the city's plentiful Louisiana snapping turtles in the 19th century. Antoine's listed it on the 1840 menu; Commander's Palace has served it since opening in 1893 and it remains the Brennan family flagship dish. The dish became scarce in the 1980s when the snapping turtle was federally restricted; today's restaurants source farmed alligator-snapping turtle from Louisiana suppliers or use a turtle-and-veal blend. The tableside sherry pour from a small carafe is now a Creole-dining-room ritual; Arnaud's and Brigtsen's both keep it as a signature soup.
Commander's Palace in New Orleans is the 1893 Garden District grande dame on Washington Avenue, the Brennan family flag with turtle soup, jacket-required.
OrderThe turtle soup with sherry tableside. It has been on the menu since the dining room opened in 1893.
TipBook the upstairs Garden Room for the live courtyard view; the dress code requires collared shirts at dinner.
Brigtsen's in New Orleans is Frank and Marna Brigtsen's 1986 Victorian-cottage Creole Acadian room near the streetcar terminus, a Paul Prudhomme alumnus.
OrderThe shell-bean and crawfish stew, on the menu since 1986. Then the file gumbo.
TipDinner only, Tuesday to Saturday from 17:00. The whole restaurant is one cottage; book ahead.
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