A round, sesame-seeded Sicilian loaf split and packed with mortadella, salami, ham, provolone, mozzarella and the canonical olive salad: chopped giardiniera, olives, garlic, olive oil and herbs.

The muffuletta was invented at Central Grocery on Decatur Street in 1906 by Sicilian-American Salvatore Lupo, who wanted to serve Sicilian dock workers a lunch they could eat one-handed at the counter. The round seeded loaf comes from the Sicilian muffuletta bread tradition. The olive salad is the dish; the meat is supporting cast. The sandwich travels well and tastes better at room temperature after the olive salad has soaked the bread. Central Grocery still cuts whole and half muffulettas at the original 923 Decatur counter; Cochon Butcher in the Warehouse District makes a chef's-take version with the same instinct.

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