Tex-Mex, icehouse$the-heights
Eight Row Flint in Houston is the Heights icehouse from Agricole Hospitality in a converted Citgo gas station on Yale Street, with brisket tacos, frozen margaritas and 200 whiskeys.
Signature: Brisket tacos, Margarita
Order: Brisket tacos, the frozen-tied-with-Topo-Chico margarita, queso fundido.
Tip: The patio under the old gas station canopy is the seat. East End second location for a different crowd.
Tex-Mex$$east-end
El Tiempo Cantina on Navigation in Houston is Roland Laurenzo's Tex-Mex room (son of Ninfa Laurenzo) next to the Original Ninfa's, with fajitas, beef rib parrilladas and stacked margaritas.
Signature: Fajitas, Beef rib parrillada
Order: Fajitas, the beef rib parrillada, a stacked margarita.
Tip: The Navigation flagship is the original; other locations exist citywide. Patio in cool weather.
American garden cafe$$rice-village-upper-kirby
Tiny Boxwoods in Houston is the garden-cafe on West Alabama in the Thompson + Hanson nursery, with a chocolate chip cookie that became a Houston object, wood-fired pizzas and an oak-shaded patio.
Signature: Chocolate chip cookie, Wood-fired pizza
Order: The chocolate chip cookie warm with milk. Whichever pizza is on. Salad of the day at lunch.
Tip: Brunch on weekends draws a 90-minute line. Weekday lunch is the move. Order an extra dozen cookies for home.
Vietnamese$midtown
Cali Sandwich & Pho in Houston is the Travis Street Vietnamese counter in Midtown, a Houston banh mi institution since 1979 with bo luc lac, rice plates and salt-pepper tofu.
Signature: Banh mi, Bo luc lac
Order: BBQ pork banh mi. Bo luc lac (shaking beef) over rice. A Vietnamese iced coffee.
Tip: Cash strongly preferred. Closed Sundays. The pho here is solid but the banh mi is the reason.
Texas barbecue$rice-village-upper-kirby
Goode Company Barbeque on Kirby Drive in Houston is Jim Goode's 1977 mesquite-smoked barbecue room, the city's introduction to commercial Texas barbecue and still a Rice Village staple.
Signature: Brisket, Jalapeno pork sausage
Order: Brisket and a jalapeno pork sausage link. Jambalaya. Pecan pie to close.
Tip: Multiple Goode Company locations across Houston exist. The Kirby flagship is the original and the only one with the screened porch.
Regional Mexican$$montrose
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, a James Beard winner with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season and a Sunday brunch buffet.
Signature: Cochinita pibil, Sunday brunch buffet
Order: Cochinita pibil. The Sunday brunch buffet. Tableside hot chocolate.
Tip: Sunday brunch books two weeks out. Lunch on weekdays is the easier slot.