Crisp-fried market squid from one of America's most storied squid fisheries, the default starter on tables from Carmel pubs to seafood grills.

Monterey Bay has run a commercial squid fishery since Chinese and later Sicilian fishing families built it in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and market squid remains one of California's biggest catches. On the Monterey Peninsula the local habit is to eat it simply: dusted, flash-fried and squeezed with lemon. In Carmel it opens meals everywhere from Brophy's Tavern, where it headlines the pub menu, to Flaherty's crispy calamari appetiser.

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