new-town
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, opened 1975 and named UK's best fish and chip shop by The Times, a takeaway chippy chipping its own daily.
Try: Battered haddock and chips
Tip: Evening-only: opens at 16:00. Arrive at opening to avoid the post-work queue that builds from 17:30.
old-town
Civerinos Slice on Hunter Square in Edinburgh Old Town, the counter arm of the Civerinos restaurant, selling New York-style pizza slices from GBP 4 each.
Try: New York-style pizza by the slice
Tip: Slices rotate through the day; pepperoni and margherita are always on. Fold it in half New York-style and eat standing.
old-town
Bertie's Proper Fish and Chips on Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town, a sit-down and takeaway chippy cooking fresh Scottish haddock battered to order.
Try: Battered haddock and chips
Tip: Takeaway counter at the front is faster than the sit-down section. Order at the counter and eat on the Grassmarket steps.
southside
Kebab Mahal on Nicolson Square in Edinburgh, a halal Punjabi curry house open since 1979, serving tandoori grills and biryanis until 02:00 on weekends.
Try: Tandoori mixed grill
Tip: Later is better here: after midnight on a Friday the atmosphere is distinct. The lamb tikka is the order.
stockbridge
Stockbridge Market's food stalls on Saunders Street in Edinburgh, every Sunday from 10:00, with 15 or more hot-food vendors rotating weekly through bao buns.
Try: Rotating street food stalls
Tip: The vendor list rotates; check the website the night before to see what is on. Arrive at 10:30 for first choice before queues build.
southside
Mosque Kitchen on Nicolson Square in Edinburgh, serving halal Pakistani and Indian curry, rice and naan at prices barely changed since the 1980s, cash only.
Try: Lamb curry with rice and naan
Tip: Peak lunchtime queue moves fast. Order the lamb curry with a naan and bring cash for speed.