Fried hammour is Dubai's fishing village dish: reef grouper rubbed with masala, deep fried whole, weighed at the counter and served with rice and tamarind curry sauce.

Hammour is the Gulf's grouper, the fish that fed the coast before the towers, and the way Dubai eats it comes from the fish shacks beside the Jumeirah fishing harbour. The fish is scored, rubbed with a wet paste of chilli, turmeric, ginger and garlic, and dropped into hot oil so the crust seals in minutes. It is sold by weight rather than by portion, eaten with the fingers off a paper plate with rice and a thin sour curry,. Stocks have fallen far enough that the UAE now limits hammour fishing, so many kitchens substitute sherry or pomfret.

2 editor picks for Fried hammour in Dubai, ranked by editorial score. All Dubai signature dishes · Fried hammour across every city.

Bu Qtair ★ 4.4

$SeafoodUmm Suqeim

Bu Qtair has fried whatever the boats brought in behind Jumeirah's fishing harbour in Umm Suqeim, Dubai, since the 1980s, queue and all, no bookings.

OrderFried spiced fish, Fried prawns

TipPick your marinated fish and prawns at the counter, pay by weight, give your first name and wait for it to be called.

Waterfront Market ★ 4.3

$SeafoodDeira

Waterfront Market replaced the old Deira Fish Market in 2017, putting fish, meat, produce and a dry goods and spice hall under one roof by the sea in Deira.

TipCome early: boats still unload their catch at dawn, and the market's restaurants will cook what you buy.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Fried hammour makes more sense with someone from Dubai explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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