Further down the beach road, in the shadow of the Burj Al Arab. Madinat Jumeirah's restaurants and a run of independent cafes and fish counters define the eating.
Bu Qtair has fried whatever the boats brought in behind Jumeirah's fishing harbour in Umm Suqeim, Dubai, since the 1980s, queue and all, no bookings.
SignatureFried spiced fish, Fried prawns
TipPick your marinated fish and prawns at the counter, pay by weight, give your first name and wait for it to be called.
Bu Qtair sells marinated fish and prawns by weight from a shack by the Umm Suqeim fishing harbour, then fries them to order while diners wait.
OrderFried pomfret or sheri by weight, with rice, parathas and the tomato curry sauce.
TipPick your fish at the counter, give your first name and wait for it to be called; there is no booking.
Amongst Few pairs a concept store with a cafe in the Bahwan Complex on Al Wasl Road in Umm Suqeim, Dubai, open from 09:00 to 21:00 every day.
DrinkSpecialty coffee
TipBrowse the concept store before or after eating.
Brew on Jumeirah Road in Umm Suqeim opened in 2015 and was among the first Dubai cafes to bring Berlin's The Barn beans to the UAE's specialty scene.
DrinkCortado
TipIt sits opposite the Emarat petrol station on Jumeirah Road.
19 Sixty-Four by McGettigan's pours sommelier-led wine tastings and flights at Souk Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai, built around wine, not a side list.
PourThe Wine 101 flight of three sommelier-selected wines
WineCurated wine selections built around sommelier-led tastings and flights
FoodWine and cheese pairings alongside a wine-focused snacks menu
TipStart with the Wine 101, three sommelier-picked wines for AED 99, served from 17:00, Tuesday to Sunday.
Il Borro Tuscan Bistro serves traditional Tuscan cooking and an Italian-led wine list beside the Turtle Lagoon at Jumeirah Al Naseem in Umm Suqeim, Dubai.
PourA Tuscan red from the Italian list
WineAn Italian-led list with French and American names
FoodTraditional Tuscan bistro cuisine
TipAsk for a table by the Turtle Lagoon.
Bahri Bar looks out from the Jumeirah Mina A'Salam hotel in Dubai over the waterways of Madinat Jumeirah, pouring Silk Route spiced cocktails.
DrinkCocktails infused with Silk Route spices
FoodDrinks and light bites
TipCome for sunset: the bar pairs its Silk Route cocktails with live music and burgers in the evening.
Rialto Bar at Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab in Dubai is a 1950s inspired Italian bar for aperitivo before or after dinner at the hotel's Rialto restaurants.
DrinkAperitivo and Italian cocktails
FoodDrinks and light bites alongside the Rialto deli
TipPair a pre-dinner spritz here with a table at Rialto next door.
Trader Vic's Madinat has poured Mai Tais at Souk Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai since 2004, a Polynesian room with live music and tiki carvings inside.
DrinkMai Tai and Tiki Puka Puka
FoodPolynesian inspired restaurant menu
TipThe Cuban band plays most evenings, so ask for a table near the small stage rather than the quieter back room.
Al Farwania Restaurant has served karak chai on Jumeirah Road since 1981, and from about four in the afternoon cars queue outside for a cup.
TryKarak chai
TipStay in the car: waiters take orders at the window, and the karak was long famous for costing a single dirham.
Ripe Market fills Dubai Police Academy Park with UAE farmers, homegrown brands and food trucks each winter weekend, opening its 15th season on 10 October.
TipArrive near opening at 9am for the freshest produce before the midday crowd builds.
Jumeirah Fish Market is a small seafood market in Umm Suqeim with a cleaning station and a cooking station on site that will grill or fry the catch to order.
TipNegotiate the price, then have it cleaned and cooked on site; cooking is charged by the kilo.
SALT at Kite Beach in Umm Suqeim, Dubai, is the airstream truck turned beach house that keeps grilling wagyu burgers through the night, daily.
TryWagyu smash burger
TipIt runs 24 hours on Kite Beach, so a late burger by the sea is the draw.
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