$$$$
YemeniDeira
Bait Al Mandi serves Yemeni mandi and madfoon from a large Al Muraqqabat branch of the UAE chain in Deira, Dubai, open from 10:00 until 02:00 daily.
Why locals goFrom the street it reads as a plain Deira restaurant, but inside are private floor-seating cabins where families eat mandi the traditional way.
TipAsk for a floor-seating cabin; mandi comes with soup, salad and a spicy tomato sauce.
$$$$
IraqiDeira
Kabab Erbil Iraqi Restaurant grills Kurdish kebab and masgouf fish on Al Muraqqabat Street in Deira, Dubai, a room busiest on Thursday nights.
Why locals goA plain storefront on Al Rigga's old strip, where a Thursday night crowd and a grill behind glass are the only signals of its Iraqi and Kurdish kebab.
TipWatch the masgouf grilling on slow flames behind the glass panel; meals start with salads and lentil soup, and Iraqi tea is refilled free.
$$$$
AfghanDeira
Afghan Kebab House grills chapli kebab near the Montreal Naif Hotel in Naif, a Deira kitchen most visitors walk straight past on their way to the souks.
Why locals goIt sits on a Naif side street near the Montreal Naif Hotel, a workers' lunch room rather than a tourist stop.
TipOrder the bolani as a starter while the chapli kebab finishes on the grill.
$$$$
NigerianDeira
Africana Home Restaurant serves Nigerian jollof rice and grills from a mezzanine room near Al Sabkha Street in Deira, Dubai, open until 02:00.
Why locals goIt trades from a mezzanine near the Al Sabkha Hotel, a floor that most people walking past on the street never notice.
TipOrder the jollof rice with grilled tilapia.
$$$$
ChineseDeira
Fujian Snacks looks like a Deira hot pot counter off Al Rigga Road, but its Fujianese chef also cooks poached mutton in numbing Sichuan chili oil.
Why locals goFrom the street it reads as a plain hot pot shop, but the chef from Fujian province cooks a longer regional menu that most passers-by never ask about.
TipOrder from the dishes beyond the hot pot list, and ask for rice with the mutton to take the edge off the Sichuan peppercorn.
$$$$
EthiopianDeira
Dukem Restaurant has served Ethiopian doro wat and kitfo around the clock from inside a budget hotel on Omar Bin Al Khattab Road in Deira, Dubai.
Why locals goSet on the ground floor of the Paloma Blanca Hotel Apartments, it is easy to mistake for hotel lobby seating rather than a full Ethiopian kitchen open all day and night.
TipOrder the kitfo raw if you want it traditional, or ask the kitchen to sear it lightly.