Kokotxas are the throat glands of hake, gelatinous wedges of cartilage and flesh that emulsify into the Basque pil pil sauce, cooked slowly in olive oil and garlic until the gelatin forms a green-tinted emulsion.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
The kokotxa dish entered the Basque canon in the 19th-century fishing tradition of Pasaia and Hondarribia, where the throat glands (once discarded) were taken home by fishermen's families and cooked in garlic-and-oil cazuelas. The pil pil emulsion technique (shaking the pan to bind the hake gelatin into a green sauce) descends from the bacalao al pil pil tradition of the Basque cod trade. Casa Urola and Bodegon Alejandro in San Sebastian's Old Town anchor the canonical kokotxas service since the mid-20th century. Kokotxa restaurant on Calle Campanario takes its name from the dish and holds a Michelin star.
Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. The cazuela must be earthenware or thick cast iron for the slow, even heat. Shake patiently; if the emulsion breaks, off the heat and add a teaspoon of warm water and continue shaking.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the most complete Basque wine lists in the Old Town, with Txakoli on tap and a deep Rioja Alavesa shelf upstairs.
Signature pour: Itsasmendi Txakoli by the glass
Wine focus: Basque Txakoli, Rioja Alavesa and growers
Food: Pintxos counter and full dining room upstairs
Tip: Drink Txakoli at the counter; the dining room upstairs lets you settle in with a half-bottle of Rioja.
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986. Now Inaxio Valverde runs the kitchen.
Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso
Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
Kokotxa on Calle del Campanario in San Sebastian's Old Town, one Michelin star since 2010, takes its name from the hake-throat gland and runs Daniel Lopez's contemporary Basque tasting menu in a 30-cover room.
Order: The Bidasoa tasting menu; the namesake kokotxas plate is on every menu.
Tip: Two services daily, 13:30 lunch and 20:30 dinner. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Book 10 days ahead through restaurantekokotxa.com.
More cities are in research. Want kokotxas de merluza al pil pil covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.