History

The kokotxa dish entered the Basque canon in the 19th-century fishing tradition of Pasaia and Hondarribia, where the throat glands (once discarded) were taken home by fishermen's families and cooked in garlic-and-oil cazuelas. The pil pil emulsion technique (shaking the pan to bind the hake gelatin into a green sauce) descends from the bacalao al pil pil tradition of the Basque cod trade. Casa Urola and Bodegon Alejandro in San Sebastian's Old Town anchor the canonical kokotxas service since the mid-20th century. Kokotxa restaurant on Calle Campanario takes its name from the dish and holds a Michelin star.

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Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g hake kokotxas (throat glands), trimmed
  • 200ml extra virgin olive oil (Arbequina)
  • 4 cloves garlic, sliced thin
  • 1 dried guindilla pepper, deseeded
  • Sea salt
  • 1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Method

  1. Pat the kokotxas dry on kitchen paper; salt lightly.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a flat earthenware cazuela over very low heat with the sliced garlic and guindilla; allow the garlic to infuse slowly without browning, 5 minutes.
  3. Remove the garlic and guindilla with a slotted spoon and set aside.
  4. Place the kokotxas skin-side up in a single layer. Cook over the lowest heat for 6 to 8 minutes; the gelatin will start to release.
  5. Now begin the pil pil emulsion: hold the cazuela handle with both hands and shake slowly and steadily in a circular motion. The oil will gradually turn opaque and green as the gelatin binds it into an emulsion (3 to 5 minutes).
  6. Once the sauce holds a creamy consistency, scatter the parsley and the reserved garlic on top.
  7. Serve immediately in the cazuela with crusty bread.

Tip from the editors. The cazuela must be earthenware or thick cast iron for the slow, even heat. Shake patiently; if the emulsion breaks, off the heat and add a teaspoon of warm water and continue shaking.

Where to eat kokotxas de merluza al pil pil

Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil in San Sebastián

Casa Urola ★ 4.5

€€€ Wine bar

Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the most complete Basque wine lists in the Old Town, with Txakoli on tap and a deep.

PourItsasmendi Txakoli by the glass

WineBasque Txakoli, Rioja Alavesa and growers

FoodPintxos counter and full dining room upstairs

TipDrink Txakoli at the counter; the dining room upstairs lets you settle in with a half-bottle of Rioja.

Directions Book

Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5

€€€ BasqueParte Vieja

Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.

OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.

TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.

Directions Book

Kokotxa 1 ★ ★ 4.6

€€€€ Tasting €105Tasting menuChef Daniel Lopez

Kokotxa on Calle del Campanario in San Sebastian's Old Town, one Michelin star since 2010, takes its name from the hake-throat gland and runs Daniel.

OrderThe Bidasoa tasting menu; the namesake kokotxas plate is on every menu.

Book2 weeks ahead

TipTwo services daily, 13:30 lunch and 20:30 dinner. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Book 10 days ahead through restaurantekokotxa.com.

Directions Book

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