Modern Portuguese€€€baixa
Cantinho do Avillez in Porto is chef Jose Avillez's relaxed bistro on Rua Mouzinho da Silveira, with daily Matosinhos fish and a strong wine list.
Signature: Tuna tataki, Iberian black-pork cheek
Order: The tuna tataki to start, Iberian black-pork cheek to follow.
Tip: Open daily, lunch and dinner. Walk down to Praca do Infante after for a riverside coffee.
Modern Portuguese€€€bonfim
Almeja in Porto's Bonfim is chef Joao Cura's seasonal counter, building short tasting menus around what arrived from the Atlantic and Minho gardens that morning.
Signature: Seasonal tasting menu
Order: Whichever menu the kitchen is running this week.
Tip: Tiny room. Book a week ahead. Lunch is cheaper than dinner and runs the same kitchen.
Traditional Portuguese€€ribeira
Taberna dos Mercadores in Porto's Ribeira packs eight tables, an open kitchen and a board of acorda, rojoes and cod croquettes a block from the Douro.
Signature: Acorda de mariscos, Rojoes
Order: Acorda de mariscos, the bread-and-seafood stew that built this place.
Tip: Reservations exhausted weeks ahead. Try lunch Tuesday or Wednesday for a walk-in chance.
Traditional Portuguese€€ribeira
Adega Sao Nicolau in Porto's Ribeira has been pouring red since the 1940s, serving polvo a lagareiro on a small Douro-facing terrace below the quay.
Signature: Polvo a lagareiro, Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa
Order: Polvo a lagareiro: octopus baked with potatoes, garlic and a slug of olive oil.
Tip: Lunch service from noon. The river-side terrace fills first; the inside room is cooler in August.
Modern Portuguese€€€foz
Cafeina in Foz do Douro, Porto, occupies a tiled corner villa where the kitchen pairs Portuguese classics with international turns and a serious wine cellar.
Signature: Bacalhau a la Cafeina, Tournedos with foie
Order: Bacalhau a la Cafeina, then the chocolate cake in port-wine reduction.
Tip: Closed Mondays; lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. The walled garden books out on Saturdays.
Mediterranean€€€baixa
Flow in Porto's Baixa pairs a sushi counter with a Mediterranean kitchen across two floors and a roof terrace, on a quiet Conceicao side-street near Cordoaria.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Black-rice seafood
Order: The tuna tartare to start, the black-rice seafood to follow.
Tip: Walk up to the roof bar for a Touriga Nacional flight after dinner.