Traditional Portuguese€€Zona VelhaMon-Sun 11:00-22:45
Casa Portuguesa lines its Funchal old town rooms with hand-painted cobalt tiles and cooks a traditional Portuguese carte, with fado by prior reservation.
Signature: Traditional Portuguese carte, Bacalhau
Order: A traditional Portuguese main, booked with the fado sitting if you want music.
Tip: Fado nights need reserving in advance rather than asking for on the door.
Contemporary PortugueseChef Gonçalo Bita Bota€€€PalheiroDaily 19:00-22:00
Oxalis is the dining room at Casa Velha do Palheiro above Funchal, cooking flavours of Madeira from the estate kitchen garden and island growers.
Signature: Seasonal set menu, Kitchen-garden produce
Order: The seasonal menu, rewritten as the estate kitchen garden dictates.
Tip: Dinner only, and it is a 20 minute drive up from the Funchal seafront, so plan the taxi back before you order wine.
Portuguese (grill)€€LidoFri-Tue 18:30-22:30, closed Wednesday and Thursday
Casa das Espetadas cooks Madeira's laurel-skewer espetada over wood in Funchal, with beef, chicken, tuna and pork versions off the same fire.
Signature: Espetada, Bolo do caco, Wood-oven plates
Order: Beef espetada on the bay-laurel skewer, hung at the table.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Thursday, and the terrace runs folklore and fado on some evenings.
Portuguese€€SéMon-Sat 11:45-15:30 and 18:00-22:30, closed Sunday
Restaurante dos Combatentes is a plain central Funchal dining room with a garden, cooking regional Madeiran plates at everyday weekday prices.
Signature: Regional Madeiran plates, Bacalhau
Order: The regional plate of the day, which is what the room is built around.
Tip: Lunch is the busy service with local office trade. Both services run Saturday too, and it is closed Sunday.
Traditional Portuguese€€SéDaily 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat until 02:00
A Gruta reopened in 2019 above the Funchal port, cooking clay-pot Portuguese food and staying open past midnight when most kitchens have shut.
Signature: Clay-pot dishes, Grilled meats, Madeiran desserts
Order: A clay-pot dish finished at the table, which is the house method.
Tip: One of the few Funchal kitchens still serving after midnight, and later again at weekends.
Italian€€€€LidoDaily 18:30-00:00, last orders 22:30
Villa Cipriani serves Italian cooking on the clifftop terrace at Reid's Palace in Funchal, revisiting Italian classics with the Atlantic below the balustrade.
Signature: Italian carte, Terrace dining
Order: A dish from the constantly renewed Italian carte, on the terrace.
Tip: The terrace tables at the seaward rail are the ones to ask for when booking. Last orders are at 22:30.