Tip: Summer Motława ferry at 09:15 is the scenic route; train via Gdynia is faster.
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Malbork, an hour east of Gdańsk, holds the largest brick castle in the world (UNESCO). Booking recommended. Reservations advised. Cash and card accepted.
Tip: Combine castle entry with lunch; Piwniczka opens at 11:00, the castle from 09:00.
Kashubia is the ethnographically distinct region around Kartuzy, the cultural capital of the Kashubian people. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Tip: Saturday is market day in Kartuzy; the Sunday-roast goose run starts mid-September.
Gdynia, 25 minutes by SKM from Gdańsk, is the third Tri-City. Hala Targowa Gdynia runs as a working market hall (Gdańsk's is closed for renovation until June.
Tip: Hala Targowa fish hall closes by 13:00; arrive on the 07:00 SKM for the freshest catch.
Jastrzębia Góra and the surrounding Władysławowo coast hold a dozen working smokehouses where the day's catch goes straight onto the alder-wood smoker.
Tip: Buy a smoked mackerel and a bottle of Polish craft beer; eat on the dunes.
Sopot, 12 minutes by SKM from Gdańsk Główny, is the Tri-City's beach resort with Fisherman by Rafał Koziorzemski (Michelin-recommended), 1911 (Bib Gourmand).
Tip: Take the SKM to Sopot, walk to Monte Cassino, lunch at Fisherman, beach for the afternoon.
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