Cafe€€Daily 15:00-21:00
Jenever proeflokaal in Pijlsteeg behind Krasnapolsky, established 1679; 70 Dutch liqueurs and genevers tasted standing from tulip glasses, no chairs.
Why locals love it: Down an alley off Dam Square; you have to know the door. The Amsterdam jenever proeflokaal nobody outside the Netherlands seems to know about.
Tip: No tables. Bend over the bar to take the first sip without spilling.
Modern European€€
Roef in Amsterdam: Watergraafsmeer is outside most tourist itineraries; this is where locals go for a five-course menu at half the central price.
Why locals love it: Watergraafsmeer is outside most tourist itineraries; this is where locals go for a five-course menu at half the central price.
Tip: Take tram 9 from Centraal. Book at least a week ahead Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.
French bistro€€Tue-Sun 18:00-01:00, closed Monday
Hotel De Goudfazant: a 1,200-square-meter warehouse in Noord with French bistro classics, daily-changing menu, open kitchen, fully natural wine list.
Why locals love it: Cavernous Amsterdam-Noord warehouse most tourists never cross the IJ to find, a 1200 sqm canteen with one of the city's best four-course menus.
Tip: Take the free Buiksloterweg ferry from Centraal. Book a fortnight ahead for weekend nights.
Cafe€€Daily 16:00-01:00
Café de Reiger in Amsterdam: Locals' Jordaan eetcafe with a back kitchen, the room tourists walk past for the more famous brown cafes nearby.
Why locals love it: Locals' Jordaan eetcafe with a back kitchen, the room tourists walk past for the more famous brown cafes nearby.
Tip: Book ahead for dinner; the bar takes walk-ins for snacks and the daily menu.
Dutch€€Mon-Thu 18:00-22:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00
Modern Dutch restaurant on Javaplein in Indische Buurt, set-menu format 3 to 5 courses from Dutch soil, game and sustainable fish, open kitchen, brick walls.
Why locals love it: Far enough east in Indische Buurt that day-trippers skip it; the city's reference game-and-modern-Dutch room runs at half the price of central equivalents.
Tip: Three-course menu early in the week is the value sweet spot.
Surinamese€€Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat 11:00-22:00, Sun 13:00-22:00
Warung Mini is small ceintuurbaan counter most guidebooks skip for the more famous spang makandra; this is where locals come for the city's best saoto soep.
Why locals love it: Small Ceintuurbaan counter most guidebooks skip for the more famous Spang Makandra; this is where locals come for the city's best saoto soep.
Tip: Closed Mondays; arrive before 13:00 for the proper lunch service.