West of the Ring along Mariahilfer Strasse: the Naschmarkt food market, Café Sperl since 1880, Aend's Michelin star on Mollardgasse, and a long run of cocktail bars.
Aend on Mollardgasse in Vienna's Mariahilf holds a Michelin star for chef Fabian Guenzel's contemporary Austrian tasting, served in a small.
OrderThe full chef tasting; a la carte is not offered.
Book3 weeks ahead
TipOpen Monday evening then lunch and dinner Tuesday to Friday; the kitchen closes Saturday and Sunday and takes a long August break.
Neni am Naschmarkt at Stand 510 on Vienna's Naschmarkt has been Haya Molcho's flagship since 2009, cooking Israeli and Levantine plates upstairs.
OrderSabich, fried aubergine with egg and hummus; weekend brunch leans on shakshuka.
TipOpen Monday to Saturday from breakfast; Sundays the Naschmarkt stalls close but the cafe stays open until 21:00.
Tewa at Stand 672 on Vienna's Naschmarkt cooks organic vegetarian plates with a Levantine accent, named for the Hebrew word for nature, open since 2007.
OrderThe hummus plate with warm pita; vegan options run the length of the carte.
TipThe market stand opens earlier than the inside cafe; eat shakshuka outside on weekend mornings.
Cafe Sperl on Gumpendorfer Strasse in Vienna's Mariahilf has poured since 1880, the bentwood Thonet chairs, parquet. At Gumpendorfer Strasse 11.
DrinkMelange
TipThe carambole tables at the back are still in play; ask the kitchen for a Sperl Torte with your Melange.
Phil on Gumpendorfer Strasse in Vienna's Mariahilf is a cafe-cum-bookshop-cum-record store, the secondhand sofas and shelves of books for sale a counterpoint.
DrinkCortado
TipThe books and records on the shelves are for sale; pay at the front counter when you settle the tab.
Cafe Jelinek on Otto-Bauer-Gasse in Vienna's Mariahilf is the under-the-radar Beisl-coffeehouse with a tiled stove in the middle of the room.
DrinkMelange
TipCash only; the stove in the middle of the room is lit from October through April.
Georg Oefferl's Mariahilf branch sources from regional farms and rests its sourdough 48 hours before the oven, the bistro counter open all day.
Worth the queueRoggensauerteig
TipThe breakfast plate at the back counter changes weekly; the Wollzeile flagship runs the same kitchen.
Cafe Drechsler on Linke Wienzeile by the Naschmarkt is a 24-hour coffee-house bar known for late-night DJ sets and the signature Drechsler-Spritz.
DrinkDrechsler-Spritz
FoodCafe classics and late bites
TipThe kitchen runs all day; the room peaks after midnight on weekends with the Naschmarkt crowd.
If Dogs Run Free on Gumpendorfer Strasse in Vienna's Mariahilf is a Bob Dylan-named cocktail bar a short walk from the Naschmarkt, the carte.
DrinkNegroni variation
FoodBar snacks
TipMon-Sat from 16:00, closed Sundays; phone +43 1 9132132 for booth reservations.
Barfly's Club inside Hotel Fuerst Metternich on Esterhazygasse in Vienna's Mariahilf is the city's longest-running classics-cocktail bar, the menu running.
DrinkClassic Manhattan
FoodBar snacks
TipOpen Tue-Sat from 19:00; the regulars order from the original 1990s carte, not the seasonal supplement.
Umarfisch at the Naschmarkt in Vienna's Mariahilf is the market's go-to fish counter and small kitchen, the grilled sardines and oyster bar a stallside lunch.
TryGrilled sardines
TipThe fish-shop counter (Stand 38 to 39) runs separate retail hours; sit-down service runs Mon to Sat from 11:00 in the restaurant at Stand 76 to 79.
Naschmarkt Deli at the centre of Vienna's Naschmarkt is the all-day breakfast and Levantine counter, with shakshuka and sabich that draw a steady brunch.
TrySabich and shakshuka
TipOpen every day; the breakfast carte runs all day, useful for jet-lag arrivals from outside the EU.
The Naschmarkt on Wienzeile in Vienna's 6th district is the city's largest food market, around 120 stalls and small kitchens running six days a week.
TipThe Saturday Flohmarkt at the south end runs 06:30-14:00; Sunday everything except the restaurant terraces is shut.
Naschmarkt Deli in Vienna runs an all-day breakfast carte for under €13, the shakshuka and sabich the Levantine-leaning brunch the cheap-eats option.
TryShakshuka with pita
TipOpen daily; the breakfast carte runs all day, useful for jet-lag arrivals from outside the EU.
Eis Greissler on Mariahilfer Strasse is the Vienna outpost of the Krumbach organic dairy, the scoops handmade from Austrian farm milk at corner-shop prices.
TryOrganic Austrian ice cream
TipLavender-honey and apricot are the bestsellers; the Naschmarkt branch is the second city outpost.
Neni am Naschmarkt at Stand 510 in Vienna runs a Saturday-Sunday Israeli-Levantine brunch from Haya Molcho's kitchen, the upstairs dining room and downstairs.
OrderSabich with fried aubergine, egg and hummus; weekend brunch adds shakshuka.
TipSundays the Naschmarkt stalls close but Neni stays open; the cafe is the only Naschmarkt option that day.
Tewa at Stand 672 on Vienna's Naschmarkt runs an organic vegetarian brunch from 09:00, the Levantine-leaning carte and the market-side terrace one.
OrderShakshuka with feta and warm pita; the falafel plate is the lunch alternative.
TipThe market stand opens earlier than the inside cafe; eat shakshuka outside on weekend mornings.
Phil on Gumpendorfer Strasse in Vienna runs an all-day cafe-bookshop brunch carte, the secondhand sofas and shelves of books for sale a calm 6th-district.
OrderSourdough toast with house spread and a cortado, with a book from the shelf alongside.
TipThe books and records on the shelves are for sale; pay at the front counter when you settle the tab.
Cafe Drechsler on Linke Wienzeile by the Naschmarkt runs to midnight every day, the kitchen serving late bar plates next to the signature Drechsler-Spritz.
TryDrechsler-Spritz and late bar plates
TipThe room peaks after 22:00 on weekends with Naschmarkt-spillover crowds; the kitchen closes 30 minutes before service ends.
Felixx opened on Gumpendorfer Strasse in 2004 in the Naschmarkt gay village, with crystal chandeliers, life-sized portraits, a wine and cocktail bar upstairs and a club room with sound rig in the cellar.
TipOutdoor tables in summer; the basement opens for events. Cocktails are stronger than the price suggests.
Mango opened on Laimgrubengasse in 1981 in the Naschmarkt gay village, with mirror walls, a young queer crowd and a record bag that leans on dance music from the late 70s and 80s into the small hours.
TipWalk-up; no entry fee. The room is compact and fills fast on weekends, so arrive before midnight.
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