€€€€Sevillian TabernaCentro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670, with the cuenta still chalked on the wooden bar top.
OrderEspinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with fino.
TipOpen daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is the reservation room.
€€€€Sevillian TabernaCentro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670 and run by the De Rueda family since 1858, with the cuenta still.
OrderEspinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with a glass of fino.
TipOpen daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is a reservation room with full plates.
€€€€Modern Sevillian TapasCentro
Bar Sal Gorda on Calle Alcaiceria de la Loza in Seville is the Cabrera Fernandez brothers' creative-tapas counter, with anemone cones and ox-tail donuts.
OrderThe anemone and plankton cone, then the slow-cooked ox-tail donut on the daily blackboard.
TipOpen Mon-Sat from 12:30; closed Sunday. Walk-in only; tables for two come up fastest at the bar after 14:30.
€€€€Spanish tapasCentro
Bar El Comercio on Calle Lineros in Seville is the Rivera-family breakfast bar since 1904, the city's canonical churreria with thick hot chocolate.
OrderA racion of churros con chocolate (five churros, 2.50 euros) and a vermut for second breakfast.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 07:30-21:00, closed Sunday. The standing counter is fastest in the morning rush; the upstairs room is a quieter sit-down.
€€€€Sevillian TabernaCentro
Taberna Coloniales on Plaza Cristo de Burgos in Seville is the local-favourite tapas room near Casa de Pilatos, with the solomillo al whisky and honey-glazed.
OrderThe solomillo al whisky (the city's quintessential pork-in-whisky-sauce tapa) and berenjenas con miel.
TipOpen daily 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Walk-in only; expect a 15 to 30 minute queue at peak hours.
€€€€Sevillian Tapas With Italian LeaningsCentro
Bar Alfalfa on Calle Candilejo in Seville's Alfalfa quarter is a tiny standing-room tapas counter with Italian leanings (bruschetta, carpaccios).
OrderThe bruschetta with jamon and the salmorejo cordobes, washed down with a copa of house red.
TipOpen daily 09:00-24:00. Standing-room only at the bar; arrive before 13:30 for lunch or after 22:00 for dinner to find a slot.
€€€€Sevillian TabernaCentro
Taberna Coloniales on Plaza Cristo de Burgos in Seville is the local-favourite tapas room with solomillo al whisky and honey-glazed aubergines that draw.
OrderSolomillo al whisky and berenjenas con miel de cana.
TipOpen daily 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Walk-in only; 15 to 30 minute queue at peak hours.
€€€€Spanish tapasCentro
Cerveceria El Tremendo on Calle San Felipe in Seville is a tiny old-fashioned beer counter near the centro, with bocadillos, montaditos and seasonal.
OrderA montadito de pringa and a half-pint of beer; the seasonal caracoles in summer.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. Standing-only and tiny; arrive before 21:00 to find a slot at the bar.
€€€€Sevillian Tapas With Italian LeaningsCentro
Bar Alfalfa on Calle Candilejo in Seville's Alfalfa quarter is a tiny standing-room tapas counter with Italian leanings (bruschetta, carpaccios).
OrderBruschetta with jamon and a glass of house red.
TipOpen daily 09:00-24:00. Standing-room only at the bar; arrive before 13:30 for lunch or after 22:00 for dinner.