The 1718 colonial core on the river, six by thirteen blocks of wrought-iron balconies. Antoine's, Arnaud's, Galatoire's, Cafe du Monde and Acme Oyster all live here.
Galatoire's in New Orleans is the 1905 white-tile French Creole room on Bourbon Street, where regulars hold the same Friday lunch tables and tip the captain by name.
Signature: Shrimp remoulade, Trout amandine
Order: The shrimp remoulade to start, then trout amandine. Order souffle potatoes alongside.
Tip: The downstairs room is walk-in only and no reservations; Friday lunch starts at 11:30 and runs into the evening.
Antoine's in New Orleans is the 1840 St Louis Street dining room, the oldest family-run restaurant in the United States and the birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller.
Signature: Oysters Rockefeller, Pommes de terre souffles
Order: Oysters Rockefeller, invented here in 1899. Then the souffleed potatoes.
Tip: Skip the main dining room for the Hermes Bar on Bienville, the kitchen runs the same menu and the room is unstuffy.
Arnaud's in New Orleans is the 1918 French Creole room on Bienville Street from Arnaud Cazenave, with mosaic-tile floors, the French 75 Bar next door and a Mardi Gras costume museum upstairs.
Signature: Shrimp Arnaud, Souffle potatoes
Order: Shrimp Arnaud, the house remoulade. Then redfish with Hollandaise.
Tip: The French 75 Bar serves the canonical version of its namesake drink and seats walk-ups; no jacket required there.
Bayona in New Orleans is Susan Spicer's 1990 Creole cottage on Dauphine Street, a courtyard fine-dining room with the smoked duck PB&J that has anchored her menu for 35 years.
Signature: Smoked duck PB&J, Pepper-jelly glazed shrimp
Order: The smoked duck breast PB&J, the menu's longest-running dish.
Tip: Lunch is the better-value seating; book the back courtyard if the weather is kind that afternoon.
GW Fins in New Orleans is Tenney Flynn's Bienville Street fine-dining seafood room, with a daily-changing menu sourced from the Gulf and the docks of Louisiana and Mississippi.
Signature: Scalibut, Sizzling oysters
Order: Whatever runs as the daily catch. Then the warm biscuits, which arrive without prompting.
Tip: Reservations are easier on weeknights; bar dining serves the same menu with shorter waits.
Coop's Place in New Orleans is the Decatur Street Cajun dive open since 1983, with rabbit and sausage jambalaya, fried chicken and a Chicken Tchoupitoulas that anchors the menu.
Signature: Rabbit and sausage jambalaya, Chicken Tchoupitoulas
Order: The rabbit and sausage jambalaya. Add the Chicken Tchoupitoulas if you have appetite.
Tip: Cash-friendly dive bar atmosphere; the kitchen runs late and pairs with Abita on tap.
Acme Oyster House in New Orleans is the 1910 Iberville Street oyster bar between Bourbon and Royal, with char-grilled oysters and a shucker counter rebuilt after the 1924 fire.
Signature: Char-grilled oysters, Oysters on the half shell
Order: A dozen char-grilled oysters with garlic butter and Parmesan.
Tip: Walk-in only and a queue is the norm; aim for 11:00 open or after 21:00 for shortest waits.
Felix's in New Orleans is the Iberville Street oyster bar opposite Acme, founded 1948, with a long shucker counter, oysters Bienville and a quieter room than its neighbour.
Signature: Oysters Bienville, Char-grilled oysters
Order: Half a dozen char-grilled and half a dozen raw on the half shell.
Tip: Less queue than Acme across the street; the kitchen is open until 23:00 most nights.