Ben Chapman's wood-fired Northern Thai counter in Soho London, opened 2016, sits in front of an open grill that turns out skewers and clay-pot noodles.
OrderClay pot baked glass noodles with brown crab, plus a skewer of aged Tamworth cured pork.
TipCounter seats are walk-in only after 17:30. Lunch tables behind the counter take bookings two weeks ahead.
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