The River Cafe ★ 4.6
Ruth Rogers's Italian dining room on the Thames in Hammersmith London, opened 1987 by Rose Gray and Rogers, still the city's defining seasonal Italian.
Signature: Tagliatelle with white truffle, Chocolate nemesis
Order: Whatever pasta dish is on the daily-changing menu, and the chocolate nemesis for two.
Tip: Sit on the riverside terrace in summer. The lunch sitting from 12:30 is markedly cheaper than dinner with the same kitchen.