Bar El Federal ★ 4.3
One of the oldest bar-restaurants in BA, opened 1864 as a general store and rebuilt as the present Italianate corner. Bar Notable, Site of Cultural Interest.
Signature drink: Cafe and tostado mixto
The oldest barrio, cobblestones and Sunday street fair around Plaza Dorrego. Mercado de San Telmo since 1897, bodegones, tango cafes.
One of the oldest bar-restaurants in BA, opened 1864 as a general store and rebuilt as the present Italianate corner. Bar Notable, Site of Cultural Interest.
Signature drink: Cafe and tostado mixto
Bar Notable on the Chile and Bolivar corner of San Telmo; a small bohemian room declared a Site of Cultural Interest. Worn wood, soft lamps, slow Sundays.
Signature drink: Cafe and apple strudel
Bar Notable El Federal in San Telmo doubles as a serious wine room after 18:00. Argentine bottle list across all regions; the corner has poured since 1864.
Signature pour: Bonarda by the glass
Wine focus: Argentine across regions
Food: Sandwiches and Argentine cheese plates
San Telmo tango bar at Estados Unidos and Balcarce, dimly-lit, nightly live tango from 20:00. Listed in the Cafes y Bares Notables register.
Signature drink: Whisky and tango show
Food: Late-night plates
Sunday San Telmo fair runs the length of Defensa. Choripan grills, churros stands, empanada carts and tango buskers between Plaza Dorrego and Plaza de Mayo.
Try: Choripan, churros, empanadas, helado
Italianate-facade market opened 1897 by Juan A. Buschiazzo, a national historic monument since 2000. Butchers, fruit, food stalls and antiques under one roof.
Sunday street-fair the length of Defensa from Plaza Dorrego to Plaza de Mayo: antiques, leather, food carts, choripan smoke and tango buskers; weekly event.
Founded in 2011, the original Buenos Aires parrilla walking tour. The San Telmo route visits a parrilla, empanada counter and an ice-cream stop with Argentine wine throughout. Monday and Wednesday at 12:00.
Devour's San Telmo route covers Mercado de San Telmo, a bodegon parrilla and a wine bar. Tasting-led, includes regional empanadas and dulce de leche stops.
A citywide one-Friday night when bodegones run a fixed-price three-course bodegon dinner. Organised by the city tourism office; check the year's participating list at booking time.
San Telmo tango bar at Estados Unidos and Balcarce; nightly tango from 20:00, kitchen plates and whisky service until 02:30 every night of the week.
Try: Late-night plates and tango show
San Telmo dinner-and-tango show in a 1920s belle epoque dining room. One of the more historically grounded productions in the city.
Intimate San Telmo tango bar with nightly live tango from 20:00. Bar Notable, smaller and more atmospheric than the show-hall productions.