Fishing-village grid on the harbour: paella terraces along the beach, bomba potatoes at La Cova Fumada and the working-class kitchens behind the seafront blocks.
Somorrostro in Barcelona's Barceloneta is the modern Catalan room where the black rice with squid is the order and the natural-wine list is the surprise.
Signature: Black rice with squid, Catalan fideua
Order: The black rice with squid and aioli, plus an albariño.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The lunch carte is the price point; dinner adds 25 percent.
Can Paixano in Barcelona's Barceloneta has poured pink cava out of bottle-lined tile walls since 1969. Two euro cava, one euro chorizo bocadillo, standing only.
Signature: Pink cava by the glass, Chorizo bocadillo
Order: Three pink cavas and a chorizo bocadillo. Repeat.
Tip: No reservations, no tables. Bar closes early; arrive before 22:00 to get a corner.
Forn Baluard in Barcelona's Barceloneta is Anna Bellsola's Mediterranean bakery: pa de blat, coques, ramats, the canonical seafront forn since 2007.
Tip: Closed Monday. Get there before 11:00 for the full coca de fuet range; the ramat is the take-home order.
Worth the queue: Coca de fuet and ramat
La Cova Fumada in Barcelona's Barceloneta invented the bomba (a potato fritter with meat and spicy sauce) in 1944. No sign, no menu, cash only, the canonical version.
Try: Bombas (potato fritters)
Tip: Open weekday lunch only; cash only. Order three bombas, anchovies and beer; expect to share a table.
BlackLab Brewhouse in Barcelona's Palau de Mar runs 16 in-house taps, a Texas-BBQ smoker out the back and a marina-facing terrace that fills weekday afternoons.
Tip: Open daily until 01:00. Book the terrace; the smoked brisket sandwich pairs the house West Coast IPA.
Chef's Apprentice in Barcelona's Barceloneta runs four-hour paella-and-seafood classes: pick fish at the market, cook back at the kitchen, eat at the long table.
La Cova Fumada in Barcelona's Barceloneta serves bombas and anchovies under 14 euros: cash-only, lunchtime weekday, the canonical pre-elBulli neighbourhood lunch.
Try: Bombas (potato fritters)
Tip: Open weekday lunch only; cash only. Three bombas, anchovies and a beer for 12 euros.
Can Paixano in Barcelona's Barceloneta pours pink cava at 1.50 euros and serves a chorizo bocadillo at 1.50: three cavas and a bocadillo is 8 euros total.
Try: Cava and chorizo bocadillo
Tip: Open Mon-Sat lunchtime and evenings. Standing only; the bar closes by 22:00 on weekdays.