Street food$el-carmenMon-Fri 12:00-21:30; Sat 09:00-17:00; Sun 08:00-17:00
Cemitas El Gordo builds milanesa cemitas on 13 Oriente in El Carmen, Puebla, opening early at the weekend and running through to the evening.
Why locals love it: An El Carmen cemita counter on 13 Oriente that most visitors walk past on their way to the market.
Tip: Opens earlier at weekends than the market stalls do, which makes it the better Saturday-morning cemita option.
Food hall$xonacaDaily 09:00-18:00
Mercado Xonaca trades between 22 Norte and 28 Oriente in Puebla, a barrio market of produce, comedores and mole ingredients that opens daily.
Why locals love it: A barrio market between 22 Norte and 28 Oriente where the comedores cook for neighbours rather than visitors.
Tip: Take the 19 or 24 route out, and treat the comedor plates as the reason to come rather than the produce aisles.
Taqueria$analcoTue-Sat 11:00-18:30; Sun 11:00-18:00
Mi Puebla Antigua Tacos y Cemitas keeps a small Analco dining room in Puebla, building cemitas to order in three sizes for well under a hundred pesos.
Why locals love it: A small Analco dining room building cemitas to order in three sizes, on the wrong side of the river for tourists.
Tip: Closed on Mondays, and the largest size is genuinely large, so order down unless you are sharing.
Cafe$$centro-historico
Black Cat, Black Rabbit roasts its own beans on 6 Oriente in Puebla and mixes coffee with mezcal in drinks you will not find elsewhere in the Centro.
Why locals love it: A 6 Oriente roaster that mixes its own coffee with mezcal, on a street everyone visits for sweets instead.
Tip: Come for the coffee-and-mezcal builds rather than a straight espresso, which is what the bar is actually built around.
Pueblan$arboledas-de-guadalupeSat-Sun 09:00-18:00; Mon-Fri closed
La Ververa cooks chalupas, memelas and mole poblano at neighbourhood prices in Arboledas de Guadalupe, Puebla, on Saturdays and Sundays only.
Why locals love it: A residential-street kitchen in Arboledas de Guadalupe serving chalupas at 35 pesos and mole poblano at 89, weekends only.
Tip: Open Saturday and Sunday only and closed by six, so this works as a weekend lunch detour rather than a weekday one.
Cocktail bar$$centro-historico
Destilado Urbano stocks over a hundred mezcal labels on 6 Sur in Puebla and runs guided flights of three with a chaser from around 250 pesos.
Why locals love it: A hundred-label mezcal room on 6 Sur that runs structured tastings instead of selling shots to tourists.
Tip: Book the guided flight of three with a chaser from around 250 pesos rather than ordering blind off the shelf.