€€€€CaféMon 07:00-19:30, Wed-Sat 07:00-19:30, Sun 08:00-19:30
Pasticceria Rizzardini on Campiello dei Meloni near Campo San Polo has run since 1742, the tiny pastry-and-coffee counter with acqua alta high-water marks.
TipThe dogi (amaretto) and golosesso (dark chocolate-pecan) cookies are the takeaway. The standing-only counter pours espresso for €1.30.
Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco is the 1720-founded coffeehouse, the oldest in continuous operation in Italy, with frescoed rooms hosted by string quartets.
TipSitting in the frescoed rooms costs roughly €12 for an espresso; standing at the counter costs €1.50. The music orchestra adds €6 per person.
Pasticceria Dal Mas on Lista di Spagna near Santa Lucia station is the historic Cannaregio cafe-patisserie, the locals' breakfast counter before the early.
TipBest for the 06:30-09:00 espresso-and-cornetto crowd. The cioccolateria next door is the late-afternoon move.
Pasticceria Marchini Time on Campo San Luca is the patisserie-cafe in the central San Marco crossroads where locals queue for the brioche and the morning.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 07:30-20:30. Stand at the marble counter; tables raise the price. Saturday morning is the local crowd at peak.
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