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Pasticceria Dal Mas on Lista di Spagna near Santa Lucia station is the historic Cannaregio cafe-patisserie, the locals' breakfast counter before the early.
DrinkEspresso and cornetto by the station
TipBest for the 06:30-09:00 espresso-and-cornetto crowd. The cioccolateria next door is the late-afternoon move.
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Pasticceria Rizzardini on Campiello dei Meloni near Campo San Polo has run since 1742, the tiny pastry-and-coffee counter with acqua alta high-water marks.
DrinkEspresso, krapfen, dogi cookies
TipThe dogi (amaretto) and golosesso (dark chocolate-pecan) cookies are the takeaway. The standing-only counter pours espresso for €1.30.
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Pasticceria Tonolo on Calle San Pantalon in Dorsoduro has run since 1886, the Venetian benchmark for the focaccia veneziana with 30-hour leavening.
DrinkEspresso, focaccia veneziana
TipClosed Mondays. During Carnevale, this is the city's best frittelle counter. Espresso at the bar €1.30; pastries €1.50 to €3.
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Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco is the 1720-founded coffeehouse, the oldest in continuous operation in Italy, with frescoed rooms hosted by string quartets.
DrinkHot chocolate, espresso, Spritz al Florian
TipSitting in the frescoed rooms costs roughly €12 for an espresso; standing at the counter costs €1.50. The music orchestra adds €6 per person.
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Grancaffe Quadri in Piazza San Marco has run as a coffee house since 1775 under the Procuratie Vecchie, the historic cafe across the square from Florian.
DrinkEspresso under the Procuratie Vecchie
TipThe ground-floor cafe is the public room; upstairs is the 1-star restaurant. The bar pours espresso for €2 standing, €9 sitting.
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Gran Caffe Lavena on Piazza San Marco has operated since 1750 at the foot of the Clock Tower, the cafe where Wagner wrote parts of Parsifal.
DrinkEspresso, cappuccino, tea with pastries
TipStand at the counter to skip the terrace surcharge. The cappuccino at the bar runs €1.80; sit-down on the piazza is €10.