Sicilian Fine Dining€€€€mondello
Bye Bye Blues on Via del Garofalo in Mondello, the room where Patrizia Di Benedetto became Sicily's first female Michelin-starred chef in 2010.
Signature: Tasting menu, Pasta con bottarga di tonno, Pesce del giorno
Order: The chef's tasting menu; pasta con bottarga di tonno is the most-photographed primo.
Tip: Closed Tuesday lunch. The 6-course tasting is the entry point; book the patio in summer.
Sicilian€€loggia
Buatta Cucina Popolana on Via Vittorio Emanuele in Palermo is the city's flagship cucina povera room, a Michelin Bib Gourmand for seasonal Sicilian plates.
Signature: Sarde a beccafico, Caponata, Pasta con le sarde
Order: Sarde a beccafico and the caponata, the two flagships of the Palermo carte.
Tip: Book ahead, this is the busiest mid-range room in the city. The shared platter starter for two is the efficient lunch order.
Sicilian€€loggia
Bisso Bistrot at the Quattro Canti crossroads in Palermo is a former Casa del Libro bookshop turned communal-table bistro for Sicilian classics.
Signature: Pasta alla Norma, Caponata, Involtini di melanzane
Order: Pasta alla Norma and the involtini di melanzane, with house red.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive 12:30 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner; the communal table fills first.
Sicilian€€capo
Trattoria Ai Cascinari on Via D'Ossuna in Palermo is a 1949-founded family room behind the Capo market, Slow Food praised for the cucina povera carte.
Signature: Pasta con le sarde, Sarde a beccafico, Anelletti al forno
Order: Pasta con le sarde and the anelletti al forno, the Sunday Sicilian standards.
Tip: Book a day ahead for Sunday lunch; the room turns three times. Gluten-free pasta is available with notice.
Sicilian€loggia
Ferro di Cavallo on Via Venezia in Palermo is the city's archetypal walk-in trattoria, no reservations, communal tables, a chalkboard menu of cucina povera.
Signature: Pasta alla Norma, Polpette al sugo, Caponata
Order: Pasta alla Norma and the polpette al sugo, the house standards.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive by 12:30 lunch or 19:30 dinner. Cash works fastest; service is fast and direct.
Sicilian€€albergheria
Osteria Ballaro on Via Calascibetta in Palermo runs a candlelit two-room dining space at the edge of the Ballaro market, seafood-leaning Sicilian carte.
Signature: Pasta con le sarde, Tagliata di tonno, Cannoli
Order: Tagliata di tonno and the pasta con le sarde, with a Grillo by the glass.
Tip: Book ahead at weekends. Live music starts 21:30; ask for the back room if you want a quieter table.