40 editor picks in Naples.
40 mid-range places in Naples, editor-picked. the comfortable everyday-good restaurants in Naples, with real cooking and no surprise on the bill. All Naples food.
Ciro Salvo's 50 Kalo in Naples' Mergellina edge of Chiaia ranks among the world's top three pizzerias on the 50 Top Pizza list, with a 72-hour fermentation.
OrderMargherita with San Marzano DOP and the marinara with Cetara anchovies and oregano.
TipBook on the website a fortnight ahead for dinner. Lunch is the calmer service; the long dough proof is the signature.
Starita in Naples' Materdei has fired the wood ovens since 1901 and runs the kitchen until midnight on weekdays and 02:00 on weekends, the original.
OrderMontanara fried pizza, margherita
TipClosed Monday lunch; open Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00 and Fri-Sat to 02:00. The montanara fried pizza 4 euros from the takeaway window.
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining room that most tourists never reach, with tasting menus of six small.
OrderThe five-pizza tasting menu, especially the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
TipBook three weeks ahead; the tasting menu at 45 euros is the entry point. Walking into the Sanita is the reward in itself.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake cream brioche at 1 euro 50) the morning pastry.
OrderFiocco di neve brioche with cream filling.
TipOpen daily 07:00-22:00. Weekend queue can be 30 minutes; the Vomero branch at Via Belvedere 84 is calmer.
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining counter, with tasting menus of six small pizzas and a wine pairing.
OrderThe five-pizza tasting menu and the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
TipBook on the website three weeks ahead. Tasting runs 45 euros; the historic counter still serves the classic pizzas.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930 in a side-street that is invisible from the main road, the city's best-value pastry.
OrderSfogliatella riccia freshly fried, eaten standing, the riccia hot from the fryer.
TipClosed Monday. Cash only. Queue 09:00-11:00; the sfogliatella riccia at 2 euros is the only order you need.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station fries sfogliatelle since 1930 at 2 euros, the city's cheapest and best standing breakfast and the closest good.
OrderSfogliatella riccia freshly fried, eaten standing at the counter.
TipClosed Monday. Cash only at the counter. The queue moves fast; sfogliatella riccia sells hot from 06:30.
Gino Sorbillo's headquarters on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the third-generation family pizzeria, with 21 siblings carrying the dough across four city.
OrderThe margherita with San Marzano DOP and the seasonal special with friarielli.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:00 for the shortest queue. The pizza fritta at Lievito Madre two doors down handles overflow.
Gino Sorbillo's headquarters on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the third-generation family pizzeria, with 21 siblings carrying the dough across four city.
OrderMargherita with San Marzano DOP and the seasonal special with friarielli.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:00 for the shortest queue. Lievito Madre two doors down handles overflow.
Ventimetriquadri on Vomero in Naples is the city's first SCA-certified specialty cafe (opened 2017 by Vincenzo Fioretto), pouring single-origin espressos.
TipClosed Sunday.
Di Matteo on Via dei Tribunali in Naples runs the sit-down pizza room and the streetside fritta window to midnight daily, the Centro Storico's most reliable.
OrderPizza margherita, pizza fritta
TipOpen daily 10:00-24:00. The window closes at midnight; the sit-down room closes slightly earlier. Cash preferred at the window.
Osteria da Carmela in Naples' Centro Storico near the Archaeological Museum has cooked the daily Neapolitan carte since 1967, a 25-cover room that remains.
OrderSeafood pasta of the day and whatever fritto they are serving from the morning market.
TipBook two days ahead by phone (+39 081 549 9738); the room fills with regulars by 13:15 and 20:30.
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centre share the carte.
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
OrderPasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
TipClosed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring.
OrderTubettoni do treddeta (house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
OAK in Naples' Centro Storico near Piazza del Gesu Nuovo is the city's best tap list for craft beer alongside a natural wine cellar, with a blackboard menu.
TipThe weekend afternoon opening at 14:00 on Saturdays makes it the best pre-lunch beer stop in the Centro Storico.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita is the original branch of the fiocco di neve bakery, a 1920 family pasticceria in a neighbourhood most tourists avoid.
OrderFiocco di neve (snow-flake cream brioche) at 1 euro 50, the original 2014 recipe.
TipOpen daily 07:00-22:00. The Sanita original bakes the same fiocco di neve as the other branches but at a gentler pace.
Gran Caffe Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples (1860) is the city's defining morning ritual, with the counter espresso and hot sfogliatella.
OrderSfogliatella riccia hot from the counter, cioccolata calda in winter.
TipStanding at the counter is one-third the price of the seated terrace. Arrive by 09:30 on weekends before the tour groups.
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and the spaghetti alle vongole.
OrderTubettoni do treddeta (the house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centro storico share the carte.
Salumeria Upnea in Naples' Centro Storico is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta.
OrderThe salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
TipClosed Monday. Open daily 12:00-23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Caffè Mexico in Naples has poured the city's strongest espresso since 1956, with five branded espresso bars across town and the trademark pre-sweetened cup.
TipFive branches across town; the Piazza Dante original is the loudest. Order 'normale' for pre-sweetened.
Gran Caffè Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has roasted its house espresso blend on-site since 1860, a Belle Epoque salon for the literary set.
TipStanding at the counter is the local way; sitting at a marble table runs three times the price.
Mosto in Naples' Chiaia is the city's most-visited craft beer hub (opened 2015) with 10 rotating Italian taps, an extensive can fridge and a bar.
TipThe Chiaia location is the original and busiest. Arrive before 20:00 for a stool; after that it is standing room. The Vomero branch has a kitchen.
Il Birraiuolo in Naples' Centro Storico is a bottle shop and bar with six taps, a cask and shelves of selected Italian craft beer including dark lagers.
TipClosed Monday. The owner pours tasters before you commit; ask for the Campanian tap if available.
Barril in Naples' Chiaia is the cocktail-and-wine bar with a kitchen that runs to 01:00, a daily-changing small-plates carte and the Aperol-cetriolo spritz.
OrderAperol-cetriolo spritz, modern small plates
TipOpen daily. The late kitchen is the advantage over most Chiaia bars; the last order for food is 00:45.
Chalet Ciro in Naples' Mergellina has faced the Lungomare seafront since 1952, with the rum-soaked babà gelato and fresh graffa (fried doughnut).
OrderBabà au rhum gelato and graffa (fried donut) with morning espresso.
TipOpen until 02:00 daily; the morning pastry rush is 08:00-10:00 before the promenade heats up.
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.
OrderPagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
Brandi off Via Toledo in Naples claims the 1889 invention of the pizza margherita by Raffaele Esposito for Queen Margherita of Savoy. Priced at €€.
OrderPizza margherita, the canonical version named for the queen in 1889.
TipOpen daily 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-24:00. Book ahead for groups; the original Esposito plaque sits at the entrance.
Trattoria Malinconico in Naples' Vomero is a no-frills neighborhood institution with daily-changing pasta, genovese, and ragu napoletano on Sundays.
OrderGenovese, ragu napoletano on Sunday, frittata di maccheroni.
TipClosed Sunday. Cash preferred. Carafe wine; the room fills nightly with locals so arrive at opening or expect a wait.
Caffè Kimbo in Naples is the city's biggest coffee roaster (1963), the family-owned brand behind the dense Neapolitan espresso served at every kiosk.
TipThe Espresso Napoletano intense blend is the house signature; whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g.
Caffè Toraldo in Naples has roasted espresso blends since 1860, the third-oldest family roaster in the city, with the espresso bar on Via San Liborio.
TipClosed Sunday. The 100 percent Arabica blend retails at 14 euros per 250g; the espresso runs 1 euro 20.
Osteria Donna Teresa in Naples' Vomero has run a verbal daily menu since 1913, with no printed carte and no signage, serving Vomero workers a 12-euro.
OrderMeatballs al sugo and pasta e patate con provola; ask the server about the daily fish.
TipClosed Sunday. Arrive by 13:00 for lunch and ask the server what is on today; the meatballs and anchovies are the constants.
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) and the babà au rhum.
OrderMinisteriale chocolate-rum disc and the pastiera napoletana at Easter.
TipOpen daily 07:00-21:00. The ministeriale is the must-order at 4 euros; pair with espresso for under 6 euros total.
Mimi alla Ferrovia near Naples Central Station has cooked the canon since 1943, with the linguine all'astice (lobster pasta) the dish Sophia Loren.
OrderLinguine all'astice, ragu napoletano della domenica and pasta alla genovese.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book a fortnight ahead via Resy for weekends; the lobster pasta runs around 35 euros.
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese.
OrderGenovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
Kimbo's Vomero branch on Via Cimarosa runs the same Espresso Napoletano intense blend as the centro storico flagship, with whole bean retail and pods.
TipOpen daily 07:00-22:00.
Caffè Passalacqua in Naples is the family roaster (1948) with the Cremador blend across the city's espresso counters, the third-generation Passalacqua family.
TipRoastery tours by appointment via the website. The Cremador 100 percent Arabica retails at 16 euros 250g.
Kbirr is Naples' flagship craft brewery (based in Giugliano), producing the Cap 'e Fierro lager and Natavota pale ale that appear on tap across Mosto.
TipThe taproom runs open-day events; check birrakbirr.com for dates. Products are also widely available at Il Birraiuolo and Mosto across the city.
Hoppy Ending in Naples' Vomero is the fashionable neighbourhood's craft beer specialist with six rotating taps of Italian ales and a compiled fridge.
TipThe Vomero location draws a local 25-35 crowd rather than tourists; ask the bar team for the Campanian tap recommendation.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Naples feeds you first and explains later. This small-group walk through the royal heart of the city and the Spanish Quarters turns a Sunday lunch's worth of flavor in...
Guided tour · 3 hours
From the birthplace of pizza to hidden gems of Neapolitan cuisine, this tour promises a delectable and unforgettable experience that you must not miss. Remember: in Na...
Guided tour · 3 hours
Experience the flavors of Naples on this guided street food tour and uncover the tradition of Neapolitan cuisine. Explore the Pignasecca market and walk the lively str...