Eating Itineraries for Genoa

Day 1Saturday: focaccia, the Mercato Orientale and farinata from the wood oven

Morning

Focaccia at the Antico Forno della Casana, whose counter opens at 07:30, then a walk up to the Mercato Orientale on Via XX Settembre, where the stalls trade straight through on Saturdays until 19:30.

Afternoon

Lunch at Sà Pesta on Via dei Giustiniani for farinata from the wood oven, savoury pies and pansotti. Walk it off in the Soziglia lanes: candied fruit at Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano, in its shop since 1814, and a coffee at Pasticceria Klainguti.

Evening

Dinner at Trattoria Rosmarino by Piazza De Ferrari, a Bib Gourmand where Michelin says booking well ahead is almost always essential, then natural wine and bruschette at Ai Troeggi near the cathedral.

StopsTrattoria Rosmarino

Day 2Sunday: pandolce, pesto by the cathedral and anchovies in Carignano

Morning

Pastries and pandolce at Pasticceria Tagliafico on Via Galata, open on Sunday mornings from 08:00 to 12:45, then a walk down Via XX Settembre into the old town.

Afternoon

Lunch at Osteria Le Colonne in Piazza Invrea, 80 metres from the cathedral, for mandilli al pesto, ravioli al tuccù or brandacujun; it serves lunch every day from 12:15.

Evening

Dinner at Quelli dell'Acciughetta on Corso Andrea Podestà, which opens for dinner from 19:30 and keeps mandilli and cappon magro on its menu.

Day 1Tuesday to Saturday: from the Foce to Nervi

Morning

Focaccia and Genoese savoury pies at Il Focaccino on Via Trebisonda, open from 07:00 Monday to Saturday, where Mentelocale noted a permanent queue outside.

Afternoon

Lunch at Le Cicale in Trattoria on Via Ruspoli for ravioli al tocco, trofie al pesto or rabbit, then walk the seafront to Boccadasse, where Ittiturismo Boccadasse cooks the cooperative's own catch at lunch.

Evening

Take the train or bus on to Nervi for dinner at Trattoria La Ruota on Via Oberdan, serving fish and Ligurian dishes from 19:30, Tuesday to Saturday.

StopsLe Cicale in Trattoria

Day 1Tuesday to Thursday: a counter-to-counter walk

Morning

Start at Panificio Mario on Via San Vincenzo, by Brignole station, for focaccia genovese with onion, olives or sage, then walk down to the old port.

Afternoon

A paper cone of fried squid, prawns or anchovies with panissa at Antica Friggitoria Carega under the Sottoripa arcades, then farinata at Antica Sciamadda on Via San Giorgio before it closes at 14:30. Cheese focaccia at Strakkino if you still have room.

Evening

End at the MOG food hall in the Mercato Orientale, open until 23:00 from Tuesday to Thursday, with a glass at La Vineria del MOG, which pours 40 labels by the glass.