A one-pot Liberties tenement supper of sausages, bacon, onions and potatoes simmered slowly in a pale stock until the sausages bloat and the potatoes soak up the fat.
Coddle emerged in the eighteenth-century Liberties tenements as a one-pot way to use up the week's leftover sausages and bacon rashers before they spoiled. The recipe held no roasted vegetables and was famously deglazed only with cooking water, never browned. Jonathan Swift and James Joyce both wrote about coddle; Joyce's Leopold Bloom passes a coddle pot in Ulysses. The dish is the working-class Dublin signature, served still at Spitalfields on The Coombe, The Brazen Head and Gallagher's Boxty House. The pale, broth-soaked colour is the dish's tell; properly cooked, the sausages should split.
The Stag's Head on Dame Court in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub since 1860 with original mahogany and a stained-glass roof, the city's archetypal Dublin pub.
TipTwo bars; the downstairs is the trad pub, the upstairs Parliament Hotel is the late bar. Irish stew at lunch is the value play.
The Brazen Head on Bridge Street Lower in Dublin 8, established 1198 as Ireland's oldest pub, the present 1754 coaching inn serves Irish stew and trad.
TipFood served until 21:00 daily; nightly trad music sessions from 21:00. The back snug holds eight; the courtyard runs summer only.
Gallagher's Boxty House on Temple Bar in Dublin, Pádraic Óg Gallagher's three-room canon of boxty, coddle and smoked salmon, the boxty reference in town.
OrderThe boxty pancake stuffed with beef and Guinness, with a half pint of stout.
TipThe middle dining room is the calm one; the front bar fills with traffic from Temple Bar Square after 19:00.
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