Hardfiskur is wind-dried fish, most often cod but also haddock and wolffish, torn into pieces and eaten with butter. It is sold in nearly every grocery store in Iceland.

Hardfiskur hangs in cold outdoor air until bacteria cure it, much as cheese matures, and the hard, yellow fish is pounded with a mallet before it is soft enough to eat. The Grapevine calls it a staple of Icelandic diets for centuries, and it is part of thorramatur, served with butter. In Reykjavik Kolaportid's weekend market has a dried fish stall, Hafdal, and Cafe Loki serves dried fish with butter on its Icelandic Braveheart plate with a brennivin shot.

Where to eat Hardfiskur (Dried Fish with Butter) in Reykjavik

2 editor picks for Hardfiskur (Dried Fish with Butter) in Reykjavik, ranked by editorial score. All Reykjavik signature dishes · Hardfiskur (Dried Fish with Butter) across every city.

  • Kolaportid

    Kolaportid is Iceland's largest flea market, with hundreds of stalls in the old customs house by the Reykjavik harbour, open every Saturday and Sunday.

    DetailsDirections

  • Cafe Loki

    Order Rye bread slices with mashed fish, or the unique rye bread ice cream.

    Cafe Loki at Lokastigur 28 in Reykjavik is a family run restaurant across the street from Hallgrímskirkja, serving classic Icelandic home style food.

    DetailsDirections

Book food experiences in Reykjavik

See all 2318 food experiences in Reykjavik

More places near Kolaportid and Cafe Loki

Not on this list, but close by, nearest first. Every one is in our guide with its address, hours and what to order.

Make it at home

10 minEasy

Ingredients

  • 150g pre-dried hardfiskur (haddock or cod), bought from Kolaportid or an Icelandic specialist
  • 150g best-quality salted Icelandic butter (or French cultured butter), at room temperature
  • A few slices of rugbraud (optional)
  • 1 cold Icelandic pilsner or schnapps per person
  • Sea salt flakes

Method

  1. Take the butter out of the fridge 45 minutes before serving; it must be soft enough to spread thickly without tearing the fish.
  2. Open the packet and tear the fish along the natural grain into 4cm to 6cm strips. Use your fingers, not a knife; the grain shows you where the fillet wants to come apart.
  3. Discard any tough spine or fin pieces.
  4. Place the fish on a serving board with a small dish of the soft butter beside.
  5. To eat: hold a strip, smear a thumbnail of butter on top, take a bite.
  6. Add a tiny pinch of Maldon if the fish came under-salted from the producer.
  7. Optional rugbraud finish: tear a strip of fish, sandwich between two slim slabs of buttered rye for a chewier mouthful.
  8. Drink a cold pilsner between bites; this is the Icelandic harbour snack, not a wine pairing.

Editor tip. Buy hardfiskur ready dried, since it cures in cold outdoor air and cannot be made in an ordinary kitchen. Cold butter is the usual topping.

Common allergens: Fish, Milk.