Greek€Old Town
Hovoli works the charcoal on Daskalogianni square in Heraklion, Crete, a plain grill house the guidebooks skip and the neighbourhood keeps busy.
Why locals love it: A charcoal grill on Daskalogianni square that locals use as an overflow when Lions Square is packed with visitors.
Tip: Worth knowing in August, when the central squares are full and this one still has tables at nine in the evening.
Cretan meze€Old TownMon-Sat 18:00-00:00; Sun closed
Chagiati hides on Erotokritou in Heraklion, Crete, a small dinner-only mezedopoleio that grills sardines and pours raki for a room of regulars.
Why locals love it: A dinner-only mezedopoleio on a lane most visitors never turn down, with a room that fills with locals by nine.
Tip: Closed Sundays, dinner only from 18:00, and small enough that arriving after 21:00 usually means waiting outside.
Ouzeri€€Venetian HarbourDaily 11:00-00:00
Ouzeri tou Terzaki has worked a quiet port alley in Heraklion since 1978, and it stays hidden from the seafront crowds a hundred metres away.
Why locals love it: A 1978 ouzeri tucked into a port alley off Plateia Agiou Dimitriou, invisible from the seafront promenade.
Tip: Aim for the port end of Lochagou Marineli. The alley is narrow and the sign is easy to walk straight past.
Greek taverna€€Old Town
Erganos sits uphill from the Heraklion museums beside Kazantzakis park, a 1986 taverna that most visitors walk past on their way somewhere else.
Why locals love it: A 1986 taverna beside Kazantzakis park that trades almost entirely on locals and word of mouth rather than passing trade.
Tip: Ask what the kitchen cooked that morning rather than reading the whole menu top to bottom.
Greek€€Old Town
Alla ki Alla stands a minute from the busiest restaurant in Heraklion and stays half empty, which is the whole argument for eating there instead.
Why locals love it: A minute from Peskesi on Kagiampi, and consistently overlooked because of the queue outside its more famous neighbour.
Tip: Go here when Peskesi is fully booked. Order the stuffed mushrooms and the fried zucchini balls.
Caf退Old TownDaily 09:00-17:00
Crumb Healthy Living Lab is the Heraklion bakery coeliacs and sugar-avoiders end up recommending to each other, well away from the tourist streets.
Why locals love it: A health-focused bakery on Papanastasiou that labels gluten-free and sugar-free clearly, which almost nothing else in the city does.
Tip: Useful if you avoid gluten. Check the cabinet labels rather than asking, because they mark every item.