Greek taverna€€€30-45 per personOld TownDaily 18:00-23:30Book 2 days, more at weekends ahead
Merastri is the wood-oven address in Heraklion for an unhurried Cretan dinner, from lamb closed in the fire to a long list of island bottles.
Signature: Arnaki ofto, Apaki, Sarikopites
Order: Arnaki ofto, milk-fed lamb held in the wood oven
Tip: Dinner only from 18:00, and the courtyard tables go first at weekends. The Cretan list is worth an extra glass.
Greek taverna€€€€35-50 per personOld TownDaily 13:00-23:30Book 2 days ahead
Parasties has cooked Cretan food over live fire in the centre of Heraklion since 1999, and is one of the city's steadiest special-occasion rooms.
Signature: Smoked steak, Pork fillet, Snails
Order: Smoked steak straight off the open wood fire
Tip: Sit where you can see the open kitchen. Staff will walk you through a mostly Cretan wine list if you tell them what you ordered.
Mediterranean€€€30-40 per personOld TownTue-Sun 12:30-01:00; Mon closedBook 1 to 2 days ahead
Lola is the sharpest small-plates cooking in central Heraklion, a compact room on Kydonias where Mediterranean technique meets Cretan produce.
Signature: Small plates, Fusion mains, Wine by the glass
Order: A spread of small plates and a glass of Cretan white
Tip: Closed Mondays. The room is small and popular with locals, so book if you want a table after 21:00.
Steakhouse€€€€35-55 per personOld TownBook 2 days at weekends ahead
Kouzeineri is where Heraklion goes for a serious steak, a charcoal kitchen near Agiou Titou square with a Greek wine cellar to match the meat.
Signature: Steaks, Pork hock, Chicken wings
Order: Pork hock, or a steak off the charcoal
Tip: Tables sit out on Agiou Titou square, and those are the ones worth a booking.
Mediterranean€€€30-45 per personVenetian HarbourMon-Tue 17:00-23:00; Wed closed; Thu-Fri 17:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00Book 2 days ahead
Sir Papafigos is a small, ambitious kitchen by the Heraklion harbour, plating shared courses in a dining room that seats a few dozen people.
Signature: Small plates, Seafood, Cretan wines
Order: A run of small plates built for sharing
Tip: The kitchen is shut on Wednesdays and only opens for lunch at weekends, so a Saturday or Sunday table is the easier one to book.
Modern Greek€€€30-45 per personOld TownDaily 13:00-01:00Book 3 to 5 days in summer ahead
Peskesi is the Cretan kitchen Heraklion gets judged by, rebuilding near-lost island recipes with produce grown on the restaurant's own farm.
Signature: Sfakiano lamb, Dolmadakia, Carob mousse
Order: Sfakiano lamb, then the carob mousse to finish
Tip: Ask for the olive oil tasting. The kitchen is supplied by its own farm at Haraso, and the oils are poured alongside rusk.