This north German autumn classic combines green beans, pears and smoked bacon in one pot, the sweet-savoury-smoky balance the signature of Hanseatic seasonal cooking.
Birnen Bohnen und Speck dates to 17th-century North German farm cooking, when the late-summer green-bean and pear harvests overlapped. Hamburg adopted the dish from the Schleswig-Holstein hinterland through the 19th century. The recipe is fixed: green beans, small whole hard pears (Kochbirnen), thick-sliced smoked bacon, savory (Bohnenkraut), and salted potatoes alongside. Old Commercial Room and Fischereihafen Restaurant cook the seasonal version through August and September.
Fischereihafen Restaurant on Grosse Elbstrasse in Hamburg-Altona has cooked classical Hanseatic seafood since 1981, with daily catch from the harbour below.
OrderThe Hamburger Aalsuppe; the Pannfisch with mustard sauce.
TipWindow-row tables face the Elbe; ask at booking. Open daily 11:30-22:00.
Eat your way through Hamburg's historic Speicherstadt and old town, tasting Franzbrötchen, Fischbrötchen, Labskaus and a mystery Secret Dish with a local guide.