Birnen Bohnen und Speck
Photo: Wikimedia Commons · CC0

This north German autumn classic combines green beans, pears and smoked bacon in one pot, the sweet-savoury-smoky balance the signature of Hanseatic seasonal cooking.

Birnen Bohnen und Speck dates to 17th-century North German farm cooking, when the late-summer green-bean and pear harvests overlapped. Hamburg adopted the dish from the Schleswig-Holstein hinterland through the 19th century. The recipe is fixed: green beans, small whole hard pears (Kochbirnen), thick-sliced smoked bacon, savory (Bohnenkraut), and salted potatoes alongside. Old Commercial Room and Fischereihafen Restaurant cook the seasonal version through August and September.

3 editor picks for Birnen Bohnen und Speck in Hamburg, ranked by editorial score. All Hamburg signature dishes · Birnen Bohnen und Speck across every city.

Old Commercial Room ★ 4.4

€€GermanNeustadt

Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.

OrderThe Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.

TipOpen daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.

Fischereihafen Restaurant ★ 4.3

€€€Hanseatic SeafoodAltona

Fischereihafen Restaurant on Grosse Elbstrasse in Hamburg-Altona has cooked classical Hanseatic seafood since 1981, with daily catch from the harbour below.

OrderThe Hamburger Aalsuppe; the Pannfisch with mustard sauce.

TipWindow-row tables face the Elbe; ask at booking. Open daily 11:30-22:00.

Deichgraf ★ 4.2

€€€GermanNeustadt

Deichgraf on the historic Deichstrasse in Hamburg's Neustadt cooks traditional Hanseatic dishes on the city's oldest canal-side street, rebuilt.

OrderThe Labskaus with Rollmops; the Aalsuppe with raisins.

TipAsk for a window table on the Nikolaifleet canal side. A single beam from the pre-fire building survives in the Fleetdiele dining room.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

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