
American cooking in Cologne is mostly a Belgian Quarter story, built around the city's love of the smash burger. Grabz Smashburger on Brusseler Strasse in the Belgisches Viertel turns out crisp-edged patties with house sauces, and it is the room locals reach for after the quarter's bars close. It is the rare American kitchen here that the city treats as a destination rather than a novelty.


