Until Open until 23:30
Yves Camdeborde's L'Avant-Comptoir in Paris is the stand-up tapas-bar next to Le Comptoir du Relais. Twenty plates on hanging menus, no seats, kitchen until 23:00.
Try: Stand-up tapas-style plates
Tip: Open until 23:30. The grilled pâté en croûte plates run €8; pair with a glass of Beaujolais cru.
Until Open until 23:30
Clamato in Paris is Septime's seafood little sister, open until 23:30 with oysters and grilled fish. Walk-in only, 24 stools, queue forms at 18:45 and at 21:30.
Try: Oysters and grilled fish
Tip: Arrive after 21:30 for the second seating; the late oyster set is the best deal of the night.
Until Open until 00:00
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond in Paris keeps its 1879 dining room running until midnight. Tripes à la mode de Caen, Camembert flambé, Norman dishes after 23:00.
Try: Tripes à la mode de Caen
Tip: The tile mosaics are listed Historic Monument. Sit on the upper level for the dining-room view.
Until Open until 23:30 Sun-Thu
L'As du Fallafel in Paris is the Marais falafel window open until 23:30 most nights, with a €9 sandwich and a queue that moves in 15 minutes at 23:00.
Try: Falafel pita
Tip: Closed Saturdays for Shabbat. The line keeps moving past 22:00; takeaway is faster than table.
Until Open 24/7
Au Pied de Cochon in Paris is the 24/7 Les Halles brasserie that fed market porters from 1947 and still pours onion soup at 03:00. Trotters, oysters, foie gras.
Try: Onion soup, pig's trotters
Tip: The kitchen runs continuously; the 02:00-05:00 shift is the quietest seating window of the day.
Until Open until 05:00
Chez Denise (La Tour de Montlhéry) in Paris's 1er is the all-night bistro that fed Les Halles porters until 1969 and now feeds the night-out crowd until 05:00.
Try: Steak tartare, andouillette
Tip: Closed weekends. Arrive after midnight for the quieter second-wind crowd; tartare is the order.