Tarte de blettes, or tourte de blettes, is Nice's Swiss chard pie, savoury or sweet, with pine nuts and raisins, and usually dusted with icing sugar.

Wikipedia traces the chard pie to the Middle Ages, with a first written recipe in the 15th century; it is one of the thirteen Christmas desserts in the Nicois version of the Provencal tradition and is also eaten on New Year's Eve. The City of Nice lists tourte de blettes among its specialities and its recipe pairs chard with apples, rum-soaked raisins, pine nuts, grated cheese and anise. Chez Pipo and Lou Balico serve a sweet version, and La Merenda and Cave de la Tour list it too.

Where to eat Tarte de Blettes in Nice

4 editor picks for Tarte de Blettes in Nice, ranked by editorial score. All Nice signature dishes · Tarte de Blettes across every city.

  • La Merenda

    Order Stockfish, tripe à la niçoise or chard pie, among Le Stanc's nostalgic local dishes.

    La Merenda is a small restaurant in Vieux Nice on Rue Raoul Bosio, taken over by chef Dominique Le Stanc, a former two-star chef at the Negresco.

  • Chez Pipo

    Order Socca, the chickpea flour galette, and the pissaladiere of caramelised onions on bread dough.

    Chez Pipo serves socca and Nicois specialties at 13 Rue Bavastro in Nice; locals have eaten its socca for generations, a tradition of nearly 100 years.

  • Cave de la Tour

    Order Stockfish, dried cod slow-cooked with tomatoes, olives, potatoes and Provençal herbs.

    Cave de la Tour is a wine bar at 3 rue de la Tour in Vieux Nice, open since 1947 and run by the fourth generation of the Gazan family, with a granito counter.

  • Lou Balico

    Order Raviolis à la daube, then the sweet chard pie for dessert.

    Lou Balico is a family restaurant at 20 Avenue Saint Jean Baptiste in Nice, open since 1979, labelled Niçoise cuisine and run by three generations.

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Make it at home

Serves 81 hr 30 minIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g plain flour
  • 250g softened butter
  • 200g caster sugar
  • 2 eggs, plus 2 for the filling
  • A pinch of salt
  • 2kg Swiss chard leaves, ribs removed
  • 50g grated hard cheese (sbrinz or parmesan)
  • 300g reinette apples
  • 60g raisins, soaked in rum
  • 100g pine nuts
  • 50ml brandy (marc)
  • 150g sugar
  • 30ml olive oil
  • 30ml anise liqueur
  • Icing sugar to finish

Method

  1. Rub the flour, butter, sugar, 2 eggs and salt into a dough without overworking it and rest it while you prepare the filling.
  2. Slice the chard leaves into ribbons and rinse them several times in cold water until it runs clear, which removes the bitterness. Squeeze them dry.
  3. Mix the chard with the sugar, 2 eggs, cheese, drained raisins, pine nuts, brandy, olive oil and anise.
  4. Line a greased tin with half the rolled dough, spread the filling 2cm deep, lay sliced apples on top, cover with the rest of the dough, seal the edges and prick the lid.
  5. Bake at 180C for about 40 minutes, until the edges come away from the tin. Dust with sugar and serve warm or cold.

Editor tip. Rinse the shredded chard until the water runs clear: the City of Nice recipe says this takes out the bitterness.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Tree nuts.