Mediterranean Small Plates€€1er
Epicerie L'Ideal in Marseille's 1er Noailles is Julia Sammut's general-store-gone-gourmet, a counter lunch built each morning from the shop's deli.
Signature: Mediterranean small plates, Imported deli, Daily counter lunch
Order: Whatever the daily counter plate is; the deli shelves are the second reason to come.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Provencal Seafood€€€7e
Chez Fonfon in Marseille's 7e sits in the Vallon des Auffes cove and has cooked bouillabaisse for the Mounier family since 1952, the fish landed each morning.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Bourride
Order: The bouillabaisse for two, served in the traditional sequence of broth then carved fish.
Tip: Closed late January for two weeks; book a sea-side table at lunch for the cove light.
Provencal Seafood€€€7e
Chez Michel in Marseille's 7e has cooked the oldest bouillabaisse in the city since 1946, the Visciano family now in the third generation at the Catalans.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Bourride
Order: The bouillabaisse at €80 per person, two-person minimum, the canonical reference in the city.
Tip: Reservation only; cash and card both accepted. Closed Sunday evening and Monday lunch.
Provencal Seafood€€€2e
Le Miramar in Marseille's 2e was founded in 1965 and is a founding member of the Bouillabaisse Charter, Christian Buffa in the kitchen running fish.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Bourride
Order: The bouillabaisse at €80, served quayside with Notre-Dame de la Garde over your shoulder.
Tip: Closed Monday; the front terrace looks straight at the cathedral on the hill.
Provencal€€2e
Chez Madie Les Galinettes in Marseille's 2e has cooked the Provencal canon on the Quai du Port since 1995 under Delphine Roux, an affordable bouillabaisse.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Pieds paquets, Aioli
Order: The bouillabaisse at €59, half the price of the seafront rooms with the same view.
Tip: Book a terrace table for sunset; the Provencal stew at lunch is the value play.
Provencal Seafood€€€7e
Peron in Marseille's 7e has clung to the Corniche cliffs since 1885, the panoramic terrace looking out at the Frioul islands and the entrance to the Vieux.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Fish of the day, Stuffed vegetables
Order: The fish of the day off the cart at lunch with the terrace at sunset.
Tip: The Frioul-island view is the second reason to book; reserve a sea-side window.