What to order at La Tete de Lard

Must order
The brioche sausage with caramelised onions, then the blood sausage with apple.
Editor tip
Evening only Wed-Sat; two seatings at 19:00 and 21:30. Book a fortnight ahead.
CuisineFrench regional
Price€€
HoursWed-Sat 12:00-14:00 19:00-21:30, closed Sun-Tue
Last verified

Why locals love it: The Rue Desiree address is three blocks from the Opera but never on tourist maps; the dining room seats 40 and fills with Lyonnais office workers who treat it as their canteen.

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Location

Address: 13 Rue Désiré, 69001 Lyon

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Micro Sillon ★ 4.2

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Micro Sillon on Place Fernand Rey in Lyon's 1er is the natural-wine bar and cave a manger that lives on local reputation, with a chalkboard menu and a tight.

OrderWhatever the chalkboard shows; the natural-white by the glass is the opening move.

Why locals goPlace Fernand Rey is a small square most visitors walk through without stopping; the 20-cover room inside does not advertise, takes no walk-ins and fills on word of mouth alone.

TipClosed Sunday-Tuesday; book ahead via Instagram; small room.

Bufe ★ 4.1

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Bufe on Rue de Cuire in Lyon's 4e is the neighbourhood bistro for the Croix-Rousse plateau crowd, with a market-driven blackboard and a price point.

OrderWhatever is on the blackboard; a glass of natural Beaujolais alongside.

Why locals goRue de Cuire sits a five-minute walk back from the Croix-Rousse market and draws a crowd of plateau regulars who prefer it over the noisier Boulevard options.

TipClosed Sunday-Monday; the back room is the quieter seating Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.

Les Mauvaises Herbes ★ 4.2

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Les Mauvaises Herbes on Rue du Jardin des Plantes in Lyon's 1er is the vegetable-forward bistro on the Croix-Rousse slope, with a €24 set lunch.

OrderThe herb-led starter, then the vegetable set as the main.

Why locals goThe name (bad weeds) does the room no favours on first search; the Rue du Jardin des Plantes address is a quiet residential block that takes ten minutes from the Croix-Rousse.

TipClosed Sunday-Monday; lunch is the price-point entry Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.

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Petit Ogre on Rue de la Banniere is chef Jules Niang's small restaurant, homemade cuisine de contraste crossing French, African and Asian flavors.

OrderAsk for the day's plates; the kitchen builds the menu around what Jules Niang calls cuisine de contraste.

Why locals goRue de la Banniere sits in Lyon's 3e residential belt between Part-Dieu and Garibaldi, away from the tourist routes; chef Jules Niang has run the room quietly since 2013.

TipOpen Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner; book ahead for evenings.

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Jocteur's counter inside Halles Paul Bocuse is the quieter stall among the patissiers, naturally leavened breads with pain au levain at the center.

OrderThe pain au levain naturel, warm from the morning batch.

Why locals goJocteur's home bakery is on the Ile Barbe in the 9e, a river island most visitors never reach; the Halles Paul Bocuse counter is how most people first taste the long fermented sourdough.

TipArrive by 09:00 for the warm batch; closed Monday.

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Semo on Rue des Fantasques is chef Fanny Duranton's small plates restaurant, seasonal and vegetable forward, organic wines and a view over the city.

OrderOrder four small plates between two; the cheese board is the closer.

Why locals goRue des Fantasques is a narrow one-way street on the Croix-Rousse slope that most visitors never walk.

TipDinner Monday to Saturday, lunch Friday to Sunday; book ahead for the small room.

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