What to order at La Tete de Lard

Must order
The brioche sausage with caramelised onions, then the blood sausage with apple.
Editor tip
Evening only Wed-Sat; two seatings at 19:00 and 21:30. Book a fortnight ahead.
CuisineFrench regional
Price€€
HoursWed-Sat 12:00-14:00 19:00-21:30, closed Sun-Tue
Last verified

Must order: The brioche sausage with caramelised onions, then the blood sausage with apple.

Why locals love it: The Rue Desiree address is three blocks from the Opera but never on tourist maps; the dining room seats 40 and fills with Lyonnais office workers who treat it as their canteen.

Tip: Evening only Wed-Sat; two seatings at 19:00 and 21:30. Book a fortnight ahead.

Location

Address: 13 Rue Désiré, 69001 Lyon

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Micro Sillon ★ 4.2

Wine bar€€Thu-Mon 18:00-00:00, Sat-Sun also 12:00-14:00, closed Tue-Wed

Micro Sillon on Place Fernand Rey in Lyon's 1er is the natural-wine bar and cave a manger that lives on local reputation, with a chalkboard menu and a tight.

Order: Whatever the chalkboard shows; the natural-white by the glass is the opening move.

Why locals love it: Place Fernand Rey is a small square most visitors walk through without stopping; the 20-cover room inside does not advertise, takes no walk-ins and fills on word of mouth alone.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Tuesday; book ahead via Instagram; small room.

Bufe ★ 4.1

French bistro€€Thu-Tue 18:30-00:00, closed Wed

Bufe on Rue de Cuire in Lyon's 4e is the neighbourhood bistro for the Croix-Rousse plateau crowd, with a market-driven blackboard and a price point.

Order: Whatever is on the blackboard; a glass of natural Beaujolais alongside.

Why locals love it: Rue de Cuire sits a five-minute walk back from the Croix-Rousse market and draws a crowd of plateau regulars who prefer it over the noisier Boulevard options.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; the back room is the quieter seating Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.

Les Mauvaises Herbes ★ 4.2

French bistro€€Tue-Wed 19:00-22:00, Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 19:00-22:00, closed Sun-Mon

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Order: The herb-led starter, then the vegetable set as the main.

Why locals love it: The name (bad weeds) does the room no favours on first search; the Rue du Jardin des Plantes address is a quiet residential block that takes ten minutes from the Croix-Rousse.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; lunch is the price-point entry Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.

Petit Ogre ★ 4.2

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Petit Ogre in Lyon's 3e is the Rue de la Banniere wine-bar bistro with a tight evening menu of small plates paired with a natural-wine list.

Order: Three small plates between two, then the cheese plate and a glass of Beaujolais.

Why locals love it: Rue de la Banniere is deep in Lyon's 3e residential belt, four Metro stops from the Presqu'ile, and the 20-cover room runs no social media campaign.

Tip: Evening only Wed-Sat; small room, book a fortnight ahead Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.

Jocteur ★ 4.5

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Order: The pain au levain naturel, warm from the morning batch.

Why locals love it: Jocteur's main bakery is in Saint-Genis-Laval, well outside the city; the Halles Paul Bocuse counter is how most people first taste the long-fermented sourdough.

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Order: Order four small plates between two; the cheese board is the closer.

Why locals love it: Rue des Fantasques is a narrow one-way street on the Croix-Rousse slope that most visitors never walk.

Tip: Closed Sunday-Tuesday; book a fortnight ahead.

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