Żurek
Photo: Chris Olszewski · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Żurek's fermented rye starter is one of the oldest Polish kitchen techniques, predating the potato. The soup carried families through Lent and now anchors the Easter table. Gdańsk's traditional rooms serve it year-round in hollowed sourdough bowls; the Easter version is reinforced with extra sausage and horseradish.

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Warsaw

Guided tour · 3h 30m

Warsaw: Polish Food Tour

The Polish food tour is a great way to experience a must-try cuisine of this amazing country. A professional guide will teach you all there is to...

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400ml żurek sour starter (zakwas, from a Polish deli) or recipe below
  • 200g smoked bacon, diced
  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 3 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 medium parsnip or parsley root, diced
  • 1 medium carrot, diced
  • 1.5 litres ham or vegetable stock
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp dried marjoram
  • 10 whole allspice berries
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh horseradish
  • 500g biała kiełbasa (Polish white sausage), uncooked
  • 200ml double cream
  • 1 tbsp sour cream
  • 6 hard-boiled eggs, halved
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 6 hollowed sourdough rounds (optional, to serve)

Method

  1. Render the bacon in a heavy pot over medium heat until crisp. Lift out half and reserve to garnish.
  2. Add the onion to the remaining bacon and cook 8 minutes until soft. Add the garlic, parsnip and carrot. Cook 5 more minutes.
  3. Pour in the stock with the bay, marjoram and allspice. Simmer 25 minutes.
  4. Bring a separate pan of water to a bare simmer. Add the white sausage and poach gently for 30 minutes. Do not boil; the casings split. Slice 1cm thick.
  5. Shake the zakwas to redistribute the sediment. Whisk it into the simmering soup base. Cook 10 minutes; do not boil hard.
  6. Stir in the horseradish, sliced sausage and double cream. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
  7. Whisk the sour cream with a ladle of hot soup to temper, then stir back in off the heat.
  8. If using bread bowls, hollow the centre from a 200g sourdough round and toast the inside 5 minutes at 180C.
  9. Ladle the żurek into bowls or bread bowls. Top each with two halves of boiled egg, a scatter of reserved bacon and chopped parsley.

Tip from the editors. Bottled zakwas works; otherwise ferment 100g rye flour with 500ml water and 2 garlic cloves 5 days at room temp. Never boil after the starter goes in.

Where to eat żurek

Żurek in Gdańsk

Pierogarnia Stary Młyn ★ 4.0

$ Modern Polish

Pierogarnia Stary Młyn in Gdańsk runs oven-baked pierogi at counter prices, a 12-piece plate under 32 $. Lunch sets pair with soup for 30 $.

TryOven-baked pierogi by the plate

TipLunch sets are 30 $ before 16:00; queues thin by 13:45 Cash is faster than card.

Restauracja Filharmonia ★ 4.2

$$ Modern Polish

Restauracja Filharmonia is a modern polish room in Gdansk. Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Why locals goOn Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, reached by a footbridge most visitors skip; the most committed Kashubian kitchen in the centre.

TipCross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Goldwasser ★ 4.1

$$ PolishMain Town

Goldwasser in Gdańsk sits in a 15th-century tenement on Długie Pobrzeże, named for the liqueur first distilled in the city in 1598. Located in Main Town.

OrderDuck with red cabbage, with a glass of Original Danziger Goldwasser as the closer.

TipThe Motława-side terrace from May to September is the best seat in the room.

Bar Mleczny Neptun ★ 4.2

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Neptun in Gdańsk is the city's most famous milk bar on Długa, two courses for under 25 $, opens at 07:30 for a Polish breakfast counter.

TryPierogi, gulasz and barszcz

TipArrive before 14:00 for the best of the day's hot pots Cash is faster than card.

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Żurek in Kraków

Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą ★ 4.5

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą on Kraków's Grodzka is the city's most editorial surviving milk bar: full meal, soup-main-kompot, all in under 25 zl since the 1960s.

TryFull Polish meal under 25 zl

TipBring cash; the card terminal is unreliable. Tables share with strangers.

Wesele ★ 4.1

$$$ Traditional PolishStare Miasto

Wesele in Kraków is the editorial pick for traditional Polish on the Rynek Główny: pierogi, roast duck, żurek, with a terrace pointed at the Cloth Hall.

OrderThe mixed pierogi plate and żurek soured-rye soup served in a bread bowl.

TipReservation recommended for evenings; the cellar room is quieter than the terrace in summer.

Milkbar Tomasza ★ 4.4

$$ 20-30 zlBrunchPolish breakfast

Milkbar Tomasza on Kraków's Świętego Tomasza updates the milk-bar form: same prices and naleśniki, but table service and a younger crowd. Booking recommended.

OrderNaleśniki with cottage cheese and strawberry jam.

TipClosed Monday. The brunch plate at 25 zl is the steal; sit-down service, not a counter.

Polakowski ★ 3.9

$ Modern Polish

Polakowski in Kraków's Kazimierz is the all-day Polish canteen for the Old Synagogue end: pierogi, bigos, schabowy, gołąbki, served counter-style 10:00.

TryPolish canteen plate under 30 zl

TipMiodowa 39 in Kazimierz is the flagship; the M1 mall branch has closed but Kazimierz remains open daily.

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Żurek in Warsaw

Bar Mleczny Prasowy ★ 4.5

$ Modern Polish

Bar Prasowy in Warsaw is the milk bar that fed central Marszalkowska since 1954. Pierogi for under 15 zl, zurek for 8, kotlet schabowy with sides.

TryPierogi ruskie, kotlet schabowy, zurek

Bar Mleczny Familijny ★ 4.3

$ Modern Polish

Bar Familijny on Warsaw's Nowy Swiat is the cheapest hot meal on the Royal Route. Nalesniki, kotlet mielony, plate of pierogi, all under 25 zl.

TryNalesniki, mielony, zurek

Bar Mleczny Pod Barbakanem ★ 4.3

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Pod Barbakanem sits just past the Old Town Barbican in Warsaw with vintage decor, lunch-canteen prices and the kotlet schabowy plate for less.

TryZurek, bigos, kotlet schabowy

Restauracja Polka ★ 4.2

$$$ Traditional PolishStare Miasto

Magda Gessler's Polka in Warsaw is the Old Town home-cooking room: seven flower-painted dining rooms in a Renaissance tenement, heavy curtains.

OrderThe bigos plate, hand-rolled pierogi, and a Polmos vodka shot.

TipTouristy but earns it; ask for the back room, not the streetside seats.

All Warsaw signature dishes →

Żurek in Wrocław

Konspira ★ 4.0

$$$ Cocktail barThemed restaurant bar

Konspira on Plac Solny in Wrocław doubles as a bar after the dinner service quiets: Polish vodkas, 1980s-themed cocktails and a hidden Solidarity-era.

OrderA flight of three Polish vodkas with pickle juice chasers.

DrinkPolish vodkas and Solidarity-era cocktails

FoodPolish classics

TipAfter 22:00 the room turns into a bar; ask to sit in the hidden apartment for a quieter scene.

Restauracja Wrocławska ★ 4.2

$$ SilesianStare Miasto

Restauracja Wrocławska's casual side: Silesian classics, pre-war Breslau menu drawn from Marek Krajewski novels, and the city's most reliable plate of rolada.

OrderRolada śląska with potato dumplings (kluski śląskie) and red cabbage, the canonical Silesian plate.

TipThe hekele (smoked-herring spread) starter is the deep-Silesian move many visitors miss.

Bar Mleczny Miś ★ 4.8

$ Modern Polish

Bar Mleczny Miś on Kuźnicza is Wrocław's most famous milk bar: cafeteria-style room, sub-3-zł soups, sub-20-zł mains. At ul. Kuźnicza 48. Booking recommended.

OrderTomato soup with rice, then pork cutlet with potato puree, total around 22 zł.

TipClosed Sundays. Lunchtime Mon-Fri 12:00-13:30 has the freshest food but the longest queue.

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