Le Vitel Etonne ★ 4.3
Le Vitel Etonne in Turin's Centro builds the carte around vitello tonnato in many guises, plus a Piedmontese tasting from the Susigan kitchen.
Signature: Vitello tonnato (multiple cuts), Agnolotti del plin, Tajarin
History
The name tonnato comes from the French tannè (tanned), referencing leftover veal slow-cooked for tenderness. The original 18th-century sauce had no tuna, only anchovy, capers and egg yolks. Pellegrino Artusi added tuna in his 1891 cookbook, which standardised the modern version. Today the dish is canonical Piedmont, in summer with a glass of cool Roero Arneis or Gavi.
Common allergens: Fish, Egg
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 kg veal eye of round or rump, trimmed
- 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 celery stick, 2 bay leaves, 4 cloves
- 250 ml dry white wine
- Sea salt, peppercorns
- 200g tuna in olive oil, drained
- 4 anchovy fillets
- 2 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed
- 2 hard-boiled egg yolks
- 200 ml good-quality mayonnaise
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
Method
- Tie the veal with kitchen string. Cover with cold water in a pot; add carrot, onion, celery, bay leaves, cloves, wine, salt and peppercorns.
- Bring to a gentle simmer and cook 1 hour 30 minutes; turn off heat and let the veal cool in the broth (about 2 hours).
- For the sauce, blend tuna, anchovies, capers, hard-boiled yolks and lemon juice until smooth; fold in mayonnaise.
- Slice the cold veal as thinly as possible. Arrange on a platter, spoon sauce over to cover, garnish with extra capers.
- Rest in the fridge at least 1 hour before serving; the sauce should soften the meat.
Tip from the editors. The dish improves overnight; make it the day before serving and slice thin against the grain.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat vitello tonnato
Vitello Tonnato in Turin
Tre Galline ★ 4.4
Tre Galline in Turin's Quadrilatero has run an inn on this street since the mid-XVI century. Bollito misto trolley, battuta of Fassona, vitello tonnato.
Consorzio ★ 4.5
Consorzio in Turin's Quadrilatero Romano is a slow-food trattoria with a fine-dining wine list. Agnolotti del plin, finanziera ravioli, deep cellar.
Trattoria Valenza ★ 4.3
Trattoria Valenza on Borgo Dora next to Porta Palazzo is a trattoria visitors walk past on the way to the market; full Piedmontese carte, live music nights.
Why locals love it: A Borgo Dora trattoria right next to Porta Palazzo that visitors walk past on the way to the market.
Tip: Thursday and Saturday have live music; book those nights ahead, lunch is walk-in on the corner outside Porta Palazzo.
More cities are in research. Want vitello tonnato covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.