History

Trippa alla romana is part of the Testaccio quinto quarto offal canon that grew out of the city's old slaughterhouse trade. Honeycomb tripe (beef stomach) is poached, cut into ribbons, then simmered for 90 minutes in a tomato-celery sauce with the surprise of fresh mint at the end (the herb that distinguishes Roman tripe from Florentine or Milanese versions). The Saturday lunch of trippa was the Testaccio worker's tradition, with the dish often appearing on weekend menus only across the city. Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato has put the dish back on Rome's must-eat lists since 2018; Checchino dal 1887 has cooked it as a Saturday-only special for over a century.

Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g honeycomb tripe, pre-cleaned
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 4 celery sticks, sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 400g peeled San Marzano tomatoes, hand-crushed
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • Small bunch fresh mint leaves
  • 100g pecorino romano, grated
  • Olive oil, sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the tripe and simmer 1 hour (this softens and removes off-flavours). Drain and cut into 1cm ribbons.
  2. In a heavy pan, soften the onion, celery and garlic in olive oil for 8 minutes.
  3. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the crushed tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and simmer 5 minutes.
  4. Add the cooked tripe and a cup of water. Simmer covered on low heat for 60 to 75 minutes until tender.
  5. Stir in half the mint leaves chopped, plus half the pecorino. Adjust seasoning.
  6. Serve in warm bowls with the remaining pecorino on top and the rest of the mint leaves torn over.

Tip from the editors. The mint is non-negotiable: it cuts the richness and is the Roman signature. Use fresh mint, never dried.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat trippa alla romana

Trippa alla romana in Rome

Santo Palato ★ 4.6

esquilino

Why locals love it: Off the Re di Roma metro stop in the Esquiline edge, Sarah Cicolini's modern Roman kitchen runs trippa and pasta under most tourist itineraries.

Tip: Closed Sunday all day, Monday dinner. Book three weeks ahead for the 35-cover room.

Checchino dal 1887 ★ 4.5

Roman, offal cuisine€€€testaccio

Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. The Mariani family has cooked rigatoni con la pajata and coda alla vaccinara for five generations.

Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Coda alla vaccinara, Animelle

Order: Rigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.

Tip: The cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.

Perilli ★ 4.3

Roman trattoria€€testaccio

Perilli in Rome's Testaccio has cooked the rigatoni con la pajata and the bucatini all'amatriciana since 1911. The pajata is the dish that defines the room and the quarter.

Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Bucatini all'amatriciana, Coda alla vaccinara

Order: Rigatoni con la pajata (the dish of the house), bucatini all'amatriciana and a glass of Frascati.

Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Cash and card; cover charge is €2 per head.

Trattoria Pennestri ★ 4.5

ostiense

Why locals love it: Hidden in the south Ostiense industrial edge, Tommaso Pennestri's modern trattoria runs the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata under most tourist radars.

Tip: Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.

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