Trifle
Photo: --Ben 18:33, 25 March 2006 (UTC) · Public domain

History

Trifle dates to the 16th century in England as a simple cream-and-rosewater dessert; the layered modern form with sherry-soaked sponge and custard emerged in the 18th century in Hannah Glasse's 1747 The Art of Cookery. By Victorian London, trifle was the show-off centrepiece of any Christmas or formal dinner, served in a cut-glass footed bowl. The dish remains a Christmas Day or Boxing Day institution in British households; London restaurants from The Wolseley to Quality Chop House feature seasonal trifle (rhubarb in spring, raspberry in summer, sloe-gin and blackberry in autumn).

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Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy, Nuts

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 40 minTotal 6 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 plain Madeira sponge or pound cake (about 400g), cut into 2cm cubes
  • 150ml medium-dry sherry (Amontillado or Oloroso)
  • 200g raspberry jam (good quality, real fruit)
  • 400g fresh raspberries (or strawberries, halved)
  • For the custard: 600ml whole milk
  • 200ml double cream
  • 1 vanilla pod (split, seeds scraped) or 2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 8 large egg yolks
  • 100g caster sugar
  • 30g cornflour
  • For the cream top: 400ml double cream; 2 tbsp icing sugar
  • To finish: 30g toasted flaked almonds; 8 glace cherries; 30g dark chocolate grated

Method

  1. Spread the sponge cubes across the bottom of a 2L glass trifle bowl. Drizzle with the sherry; the sponge should soak it all in.
  2. Spoon the raspberry jam over the sponge in dollops; smooth across to cover.
  3. Scatter fresh raspberries over the jam.
  4. For the custard: combine milk, cream and vanilla pod (or extract) in a saucepan; warm until steaming, not boiling.
  5. Whisk egg yolks, sugar and cornflour in a heatproof bowl until pale and thick.
  6. Pour the warm milk slowly into the yolks, whisking constantly.
  7. Return the mixture to the pan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, 8 minutes until thick enough to coat the back of the spoon.
  8. Strain into a clean bowl. Press cling film directly onto the surface; cool 30 minutes then refrigerate 1 hour.
  9. Spread the cooled custard over the raspberries in an even layer.
  10. Refrigerate at least 4 hours, ideally overnight, for the layers to set.
  11. Whip the cream with icing sugar to soft peaks. Spread over the custard in attractive swirls.
  12. Scatter flaked almonds, glace cherries and grated chocolate. Serve cold.

Tip from the editors. Make the layers a day ahead and assemble overnight; trifle needs sherry and jam to soak into the sponge, and custard to set before the cream goes on.

Where to eat trifle

Trifle in London

The Wolseley ★ 4.6

££ £18-35BrunchEuropean brasserie breakfast and brunchMayfair

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003, runs the city's most-traditional power-breakfast crowd.

OrderEggs Benedict with smoked salmon, plus a flat white

TipWeekday breakfast at 07:30 is the easy slot. The weekend full English at £24 is the marquee brunch order.

Directions Book

Rules ★ 4.0

£££ British gastropubCovent Garden

Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse.

OrderGame pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.

TipLunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.

Directions Book

St John ★ 4.8

£££ Modern BritishClerkenwell

Fergus Henderson's St John in Clerkenwell has cooked the nose-to-tail British canon in London since 1994. Priced at £££. Kitchen leans modern british.

OrderRoast bone marrow with parsley salad and toast, then Eccles cake with Lancashire.

TipThe bakery counter near the front sells the same Eccles cakes, doughnuts and brown loaf to take away if you can't get a booking.

Directions Book

Quality Chop House ★ 4.3

£££ Modern BritishClerkenwell

The 1869 Farringdon Road working-class dining room in Clerkenwell London, restored under Will Lander since 2012, runs daily-changing British cooking.

OrderThe famed confit potato, then mince and potatoes off the daily menu, with a bottle from the shop next door.

TipThe wine shop next door is corkage-free if you buy a bottle there. Lunch takes walk-ins at the counter Tue-Sat.

Directions Book

Quo Vadis ★ 4.5

£££ Modern BritishSoho

Jeremy Lee's Dean Street dining room in Soho London, opened 1926 and restored under chef Lee since 2012, runs a daily-changing seasonal British menu.

OrderThe smoked eel sandwich on rye, and whatever pudding is on the chalkboard at the door.

TipLunch menu is a fraction of dinner prices and just as well-staffed; book a Soho-show theatre lunch a week ahead.

Directions Book

Sketch 3 ★ ★ 4.7

££££ Tasting £245French bistroMayfairChef Pierre Gagnaire

Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire's Conduit Street dining rooms in Mayfair London, opened 2002, hold three Michelin stars in the Lecture Room and run a famed.

OrderThe Pierre Gagnaire signature plate in the Lecture Room, or afternoon tea in the pink Gallery.

Book8 weeks ahead

TipThe Gallery serves the bistro menu and books a fortnight ahead; the three-starred Lecture Room is the eight-week wait.

Directions Book

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