Greater Poland grey dumplings made from a mix of raw grated potato and boiled mashed potato, finished with cracklings and onion. Heavier and chewier than other Polish dumplings.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
Szare kluski (literally 'grey dumplings') take their name from the slightly grey colour of the raw-potato starch. The dialect dish belongs to the Wielkopolska peasant table, eaten across the Poznań countryside since the 19th century when potatoes settled into the regional staple. They appear on Modra Kuchnia and Hyćka chalkboards as the regional comfort food, often served alongside duck or kotlet schabowy with red cabbage.
Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs
Tip from the editors. The proportion of raw to boiled potato controls the chew. More raw makes them denser and greyer; more boiled makes them lighter.
Modra Kuchnia in Jeżyce, Poznań is a small basement room on Mickiewicza, run by Szymon (kitchen) and Dorota (front), with a tight modern Polish menu.
Order: Roast duck with the modra kapusta that gives the room its name.
Tip: Book the table by the open kitchen; you can see the entire pass and Szymon plates every dish himself.
Srodka kitchen on Rynek Srodecki since 2014 from Sadowski couple; Wielkopolska classics: czernina, szare kluchy, namesake elderflower cordial.
Why locals love it: On the Śródka side of the river, this Wielkopolska room is the city's most local regional kitchen but tourists rarely cross from Stary Rynek to find it.
Tip: Book by phone a day ahead and ask for the small room upstairs.
Podkoziołek on Stary Rynek in Poznań is a Wielkopolska restaurant opposite the Koziołki, with handmade pierogi, plendze, czernina and golonka in a vaulted.
Signature: Plendze, Pierogi, Golonka
Order: Plendze (Greater Poland potato pancakes) with mushroom sauce.
Tip: Time your visit to 12:00 to catch the Koziołki, the mechanical goats above the town hall, butting heads.
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