History

Spaghetti and meatballs is an Italian-American invention codified in New York's Little Italy by southern Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries (Italy itself never plated it; it is a New World creation). The cheap-protein meatball plate became the staple of red-sauce restaurants across Manhattan and Brooklyn (Rao's in East Harlem, founded 1896; Patsy's in Midtown; Frankies 457 Spuntino in Carroll Gardens). Carbone in Greenwich Village (opened 2013) repositioned it as a fine-dining set piece with $30 meatballs and a tableside ricotta finish. Via Carota plates a refined Tuscan-leaning version. The canonical New York Italian-American comfort plate.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Dairy, Pork

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 2 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • For the sauce: 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 small onion finely chopped, 4 garlic cloves finely chopped, 2 (800g) tins whole San Marzano tomatoes (hand-crushed), 1 small bunch basil, 1 tsp caster sugar, salt and pepper
  • For the meatballs: 250g ground beef chuck
  • 250g ground pork shoulder
  • 60g fresh white breadcrumbs soaked in 80ml whole milk
  • 1 large egg
  • 30g grated Pecorino Romano
  • 30g grated Parmesan
  • 2 garlic cloves finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • 30ml olive oil for frying
  • 400g dried spaghetti
  • Pecorino Romano, grated, to serve
  • Fresh basil, to serve

Method

  1. Make the sauce first: heat olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium. Add onion; cook 5 minutes until softened. Add garlic; cook 1 minute.
  2. Add the hand-crushed tomatoes, basil, sugar and salt. Bring to a simmer; cook 60 minutes at a bare simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick and dark red. Taste; adjust salt and pepper.
  3. Make the meatballs while the sauce simmers: combine all meatball ingredients in a large bowl. Mix with your hands until just cohesive (do not overwork or they go tough).
  4. Shape into 8 large meatballs (about 80g each); rest on a tray.
  5. Heat olive oil in a wide pan over medium-high. Brown the meatballs in a single layer, turning, 6 to 8 minutes until well coloured on every side (they will not be cooked through; that comes from the sauce).
  6. Slide the meatballs into the simmering sauce. Simmer gently uncovered for 45 minutes; the meatballs absorb sauce and the sauce thickens around them.
  7. Cook the spaghetti in heavily salted water until al dente, 1 minute less than the packet.
  8. Lift the cooked spaghetti directly into the sauce with tongs (do not drain in a colander; a little starchy water in the sauce is desirable). Toss for 60 seconds to coat the pasta in the sauce.
  9. Plate the spaghetti in shallow bowls; top each portion with 2 meatballs and a generous ladle of extra sauce.
  10. Shower with Pecorino and finish with torn basil.

Tip from the editors. Soak the breadcrumbs in milk first; dry crumbs absorb sauce and turn meatballs dense. Finish in the simmering sauce for 45 minutes, not in the pan.

Where to eat spaghetti and meatballs

Spaghetti and meatballs in New York City

Carbone ★ 4.5

Italian$$$$greenwich-villageTue-Sun 11:30-14:00 & 17:00-23:30, Mon 17:00-23:30

Major Food Group's red-sauce Italian-American room on Thompson Street in New York City turns 1950s tableside service into theatre. Priced at $$$$.

Signature: Spicy rigatoni vodka, Veal parmesan

Order: Spicy rigatoni vodka and the veal parmesan to share.

Tip: Reservations are notorious; the bar runs walk-ins from 17:30 and serves the full menu. Don't skip the Caesar.

181 Thompson Street, New York, NY 10012 Book →

Frankies 457 Spuntino ★ 4.3

Italian$$carroll-gardensSun-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00

The two Franks have served Brooklyn-Italian on Court Street in New York City since 2004: handmade pastas, escarole salad, sausage cavatelli in a garden out.

Signature: Cavatelli with hot sausage, Meatballs

Order: Cavatelli, hot sausage, brown butter and sage.

Tip: Sit in the garden in warm weather. The meatballs over polenta is the second pick if cavatelli has sold out.

457 Court Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231 Book →

Via Carota ★ 4.6

Italian$$$west-villageMon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00

Jody Williams and Rita Sodi's Grove Street West Village room serves Tuscan-leaning food in New York City. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans italian.

Signature: Insalata verde, Cacio e pepe

Order: Insalata verde, cacio e pepe, chocolate budino.

Tip: Walk in at 17:00 sharp for the first seating, or join the list around 20:30 for the second wave.

51 Grove Street, New York, NY 10014 Book →

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