History

Brought to Thessaloniki by the 1923 refugees from Smyrna (Izmir). The spice profile of cumin and cinnamon in savoury preparations was characteristic of the Asia Minor kitchen and unusual in mainland Greek cooking. The dish became so associated with Thessaloniki that it is now taught as a Macedonian classic.

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 1 hr 15 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 700g minced beef (or 500g beef plus 200g minced pork)
  • 100g stale country bread, crusts removed
  • 150ml dry red wine
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely grated
  • 1 small red onion, finely grated
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
  • Olive oil for frying
  • 1 large onion, finely diced (for sauce)
  • 3 garlic cloves, sliced (for sauce)
  • 400g chopped tomatoes
  • 2 tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin (for sauce)
  • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon (for sauce)
  • 1 tsp caster sugar
  • 200ml hot water
  • Cooked white rice or country bread, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the bread in the red wine for 5 minutes, then squeeze out the excess wine and crumble the bread.
  2. Mix the mince, soaked bread, garlic, grated onion, cumin, cinnamon, oregano, egg and salt in a bowl. Knead for 2 minutes until tacky. Chill for 20 minutes.
  3. Shape into 16 oblong meatballs about 8cm long. The classic Smyrna shape is finger-like, not round.
  4. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Brown the soutzoukakia in batches, about 3 minutes per side. Set aside.
  5. In the same pan, soften the diced onion for 6 minutes. Add the sliced garlic and cook 1 minute.
  6. Stir in the tomato paste, cumin and cinnamon. Fry for 2 minutes until the paste deepens.
  7. Add the chopped tomatoes, sugar, hot water and a teaspoon of salt. Simmer for 10 minutes.
  8. Return the meatballs to the sauce and any resting juices. Cover and simmer gently for 20 minutes, turning once.
  9. Serve over white rice or with country bread to mop the sauce.

Tip from the editors. Cumin is the signature; do not skip it. The bread soaked in wine, not water, is the Asia Minor detail that distinguishes soutzoukakia from generic Greek meatballs.

Where to eat soutzoukakia smyrneika

Soutzoukakia Smyrneika in Thessaloniki

Nea Folia ★ 4.3

Greek€€Wed-Thu 15:00-23:00, Fri 15:00-23:30, Sat 13:00-24:00, Sun 13:00-18:00, Mon-Tue closed

Since 1967, barely changed. Kavourmas of Xanthi beef, smoked mackerel with samphire, soutzoukakia of buffalo mince. At Aristomenous 4. Booking recommended.

Why locals love it: No web presence, Ano Poli location deters casual visitors, no English menu

Aristomenous 4, Thessaloniki

Ouzeri Tsinari ★ 4.2

Greek€€Mon-Sun 13:00-24:00

Trading in some form since 1865 near Kapani market. Meze and tsipouro that have barely changed in a century. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

Why locals love it: Looks like a regular kafeneio from outside, no social media, market district location

Alexandras Papadopoulou 72, Thessaloniki 546 33

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