History

Pomeranian fishing villages have salted and pickled Baltic herring since the medieval Hanseatic period; the cream-apple-onion version belongs to the Kashubian ethnographic region and entered Gdańsk restaurants alongside Polish migration after 1945. The dish appears on the menu at Restauracja Kubicki (open since 1918) in a form close to the interwar Free City of Danzig version.

Common allergens: Fish, Egg, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 20 minTotal 24 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g pickled herring fillets, drained
  • 1 medium tart apple (Granny Smith), peeled and diced 5mm
  • 1 medium red onion, finely diced
  • 200ml sour cream (18 percent)
  • 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
  • Squeeze of lemon juice
  • Black pepper
  • Small bunch dill, chopped

Method

  1. Cut the herring fillets into 2cm pieces and pat dry with kitchen paper.
  2. Toss the diced apple with lemon juice to keep it white.
  3. In a bowl, fold together the sour cream, apple, onion and a pinch of black pepper.
  4. Layer the herring pieces into a shallow dish; spoon the cream mixture over so every piece is coated.
  5. Cover and rest in the fridge at least overnight; 24 hours is better.
  6. Before serving, scatter the chopped egg and dill across the top.

Tip from the editors. Use the fattiest matjes-cured herring you can find; the lean Atlantic varieties are too sharp.

Where to eat śledź po kaszubsku (kashubian herring)

Śledź po kaszubsku (Kashubian herring) in Gdańsk

Restauracja Kubicki ★ 4.3

Polish$$main-town

Restauracja Kubicki in Gdańsk has run since 1918 on Wartka Street, the oldest surviving room in town. Book the window tables for the Motława view at sunset.

Signature: Eisbein (pork knuckle), Marinated matias herring

Order: The eisbein, the kitchen's century-old never-altered dish.

Tip: Book the window tables for the Motława view at sunset Walk-ins usually OK.

Restauracja Filharmonia ★ 4.2

Modern Polish$$

Restauracja Filharmonia is a modern polish room in Gdansk. Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Why locals love it: On Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, reached by a footbridge most visitors skip; the most committed Kashubian kitchen in the centre.

Tip: Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Witómë ★ 4.3

Modern Polish$$

Witómë on Piwna behind St Mary's is Gdańsk's centrally-located Kashubian dining room plating the regional fish soup and a 07:30 breakfast counter.

Why locals love it: The only centrally-located Kashubian dining room left, on Piwna behind St Mary's; visitors hunting regional fish soup walk past the Piwna door for the louder Długa rooms.

Tip: Order the Kashubian fish soup; the breakfast counter opens 07:30 and is the calmest service.

Cała Naprzód ★ 4.0

Polish Seafood$$main-town

Cała Naprzód in Gdańsk crowns the Maritime Culture Centre on Tokarska with a fourth-floor terrace beside the medieval Crane. Located in Main Town.

Signature: Kashubian herring, Pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi

Order: Pike-perch fillet with spinach and cauliflower, or the pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi.

Tip: Take the museum's central glass lift directly to the fourth floor.

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