Turkey and lamb fat shaved off a rotating vertical spit, piled into pita or laffa with tahini, pickles and fries, Israel's own spin on the Ottoman doner served fast and cheap across the city.
Where to eat it: 6 restaurants across 2 cities.
The vertical rotating spit was developed in the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century, credited by some accounts to a Bursa butcher named Iskender; both Levantine shawarma and Greek gyros descend from that doner kebab technique. Israel's own variation adds turkey to the traditional lamb, cut into thin slices and layered with lamb fat between them on the spit so the meat self-bastes as it turns, a workaround born of turkey's low cost and low fat compared with lamb or beef alone. Mifgash Rambam runs its spit through the day near Nahalat Binyamin, and M25 in the Carmel Market meat alley smokes and fries its version at the butcher counter.
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Common allergens: Gluten, Sesame
Tip from the editors. Keep the lamb fat between turkey layers as it cooks; without it the turkey dries out on the spit.
Al Mallah on 2nd of December Street in Al Satwa, Dubai, has been a benchmark chicken shawarma counter since 1979 and now runs 24 hours a day.
TryChicken shawarma
TipOrder the shawarma saj rather than the regular wrap, the flatbread version holds up better to go.
Zaroob SZR at Jumeirah Tower on Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, cooks Levantine street food around the clock, from shawarma and falafel to manakeesh.
TryShawarma, falafel and manakeesh
TipManakeesh, falafel and shawarma run all night at this branch.
Allo Beirut on Hessa Street in Al Barsha, Dubai, keeps its open kitchen running until 02:00, and until 03:30 on Friday and Saturday nights each week.
TryLebanese street food wraps and manakish
TipFriday and Saturday nights run until 03:30, the latest of the week.
Al Shami Restaurant in Al Muraqqabat, Deira, Dubai, keeps its grills and Syrian style shawarma running from breakfast until 02:00, known for its garlic sauce.
TryShawarma and mixed grill
TipThe garlic sauce is the reason regulars come back, ask for extra on the side.
Mifgash Rambam near Nahalat Binyamin runs a Tel Aviv shawarma counter by day and turns into a charcoal grill tavern at night, skewers and all.
OrderThe shawarma sliced from the daily veal and lamb spit, or a charcoal grilled skewer after dark.
TipDaytime is grab and go; come after 18:00 for table service and the grill bar menu.
M25 works the meat alley of Tel Aviv's Carmel Market as both butcher and restaurant, with chef Jonathan Borowitz running a nose to tail grill of Israeli beef.
OrderThe smoked and fried shawarma, plus whatever cut the butcher counter recommends that day.
TipFriday runs two services, lunch until 16:00 and dinner from 18:30; the kitchen is closed Saturday and Sunday.
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