Tri Sesira ★ 4.6
Tri Sesira (Three Hats) opened on Skadarska in 1864 in a building whose previous workshop had three pleated hats for trademark. Skadarlija anchor.
Signature drink: Sljivovica, Tamjanika
Food: Cevapi, sarma, gibanica, mixed grill
History
Sarma comes through the Ottoman dolma tradition (literally 'stuffed' in Turkish) and crystallised into the Bosnian winter form with sour-cabbage. Dveri and Inat Kuca both work the canonical Sarajevo recipe; sour cabbage heads come from highland farms through Markale market, with the salting and fermenting carried out in early November to anchor the December-to-February season. The smoked-meat layer (suho meso) is the Bosnian addition that sets the dish apart from Croatian and Serbian versions.
Common allergens: None unless served with bread
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 head of sour cabbage (kiseli kupus)
- 500g minced beef
- 300g minced pork
- 200g rice (short-grain)
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 200g smoked beef or pork (suho meso), cubed
- 2 tablespoons paprika
- Salt, black pepper
- 1.5 litres water or stock
Method
- Separate the sour cabbage leaves and rinse if too salty.
- Mix beef, pork, rice, onion, paprika, salt and pepper.
- Place a heaped tablespoon on each leaf and roll into tight cigars, tucking the ends.
- Layer the bottom of a heavy pot with smoked meat.
- Pack the rolled sarma tight in a circle, layering smoked meat between layers.
- Cover with water and a plate to weigh down.
- Bring to a simmer and cook covered on very low heat 2.5 hours.
- Rest 15 minutes; serve with mashed potatoes and fresh bread.
Tip from the editors. If you can't find sour cabbage, use fresh cabbage blanched and soaked in vinegar water overnight.
Where to eat sarma
Sarma in Belgrade
Sesir Moj ★ 4.4
Sesir Moj has live tamburica weekdays 18:00-01:00 and weekend matinees from 15:00. The Skadarska kitchen keeps Serbian classics open until close in Belgrade.
Try: Karadjordjeva snicla, pljeskavica, mixed grill
Ima Dana ★ 4.4
Ima Dana runs late on Skadarska, anchoring Belgrade's Skadarlija until 01:00 with tamburica live music, traditional Serbian classics and rakija pours.
Try: Cevapi, mixed grill, sarmi
Stara Hercegovina ★ 4.4
Stara Hercegovina hosts Belgrade artists from a Carigradska street room. Three halls (Travunia, Zahumlje and main) plus a 130-seat summer garden.
Signature: Herzegovinian lamb, Mixed Serbian grill
Sarma in Sarajevo
Dveri ★ 4.2
Dveri off Saraci in Bascarsija is the Sarajevo Bosnian institution behind a wood-shuttered facade, with a flowered courtyard and hearty lonac at every table.
Tip: Reservations are essential; Dveri is cash only and the rear courtyard tables are the ones to ask for in summer.
Inat Kuca ★ 4.0
Inat Kuca in Kovaci is the Sarajevo Spite House, an Ottoman house moved across the Miljacka in 1895 and now a Bosnian restaurant for sahan and lonac.
Tip: Reserve a riverside terrace table for dinner; ask for sarajevski sahan to taste five Bosnian dishes in one tray.
Nanina Kuhinja ★ 4.4
Nanina Kuhinja's Kundurdziluk counter in Sarajevo serves Bosnian comfort plates the way a nana would, with sarma, klepe and lonac sold by the portion.
Try: Sarma, klepe and bosanski lonac counter
Tip: The counter at lunch is the easiest sit; ask for klepe with extra walnut and kajmak.
Sedef ★ 4.3
Sedef in Ilidza is the Sarajevo family room cooking the canonical sahan, bosanski lonac and colourful dolma at suburban prices for the Vrelo Bosne crowd.
Signature: Sarajevski sahan, Bosanski lonac, Dolma, Small cevapi
Order: Sarajevski sahan platter with five Bosnian dishes in one tray.
Tip: Take the tram to Ilidza, then walk; the outdoor alley tables are the ones to ask for, and the kitchen does whole roast lamb on order.
More cities are in research. Want sarma covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.