Quesadillas de Huitlacoche
Photo: Daniel Arturo Fabian Sanchez · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Huitlacoche (Ustilago maydis) is a corn fungus considered a delicacy in pre-Hispanic Mexico, called the Mexican truffle and harvested during the summer rainy season. The Aztecs prized it as cuitlacochin. Mercado de San Juan, El Cardenal, and Cafe de Tacuba serve the classic quesadilla version. Pujol elevated huitlacoche to fine-dining application.

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Oaxaca

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Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 8Hands-on 30 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 300g masa harina (Maseca or Bob's Red Mill blue-corn masa harina if available)
  • 350ml warm water
  • 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
  • 400g huitlacoche (canned from Goya or Casa Domecq if fresh unavailable, drained well)
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 serrano chilies, finely chopped
  • 1 small bunch fresh epazote, leaves picked (substitute oregano if epazote is unavailable)
  • 3 tbsp lard or neutral oil
  • 300g queso Oaxaca (substitute mozzarella in long strands)
  • Salt to taste
  • To serve: salsa verde, salsa roja, crema mexicana, lime wedges

Method

  1. Mix masa harina, water, and salt in a bowl. Knead 3 minutes until smooth and slightly sticky. Cover and rest 15 minutes.
  2. Heat lard in a heavy skillet. Soften onion 6 minutes. Add garlic and chilies, cook 1 minute.
  3. Add huitlacoche and epazote, fry 6 to 8 minutes until the liquid evaporates and the mix darkens to deep grey-black. Season with salt.
  4. Divide masa into 8 balls (about 50g each). Press each between two sheets of cling film in a tortilla press to a 14cm disc.
  5. Heat a comal or flat heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Cook each tortilla 30 seconds per side until it just begins to puff.
  6. Place a tablespoon of huitlacoche on one half of the tortilla. Cover with a generous handful of pulled Oaxaca cheese.
  7. Fold over to form a half-moon, press lightly. Cook another 90 seconds per side until the cheese melts and the edges crisp.
  8. Serve immediately with salsa verde, salsa roja, a drizzle of crema, and a lime wedge.

Tip from the editors. Blue corn masa harina, if you can source it, gives a darker, sweeter tortilla; the standard yellow Maseca works but lacks the visual contrast against the black huitlacoche that makes the dish photograph beautifully.

Where to eat quesadillas de huitlacoche

Quesadillas de Huitlacoche in Mexico City

El Cardenal ★ 4.6

$$ Traditional MexicanCentro Historico

El Cardenal in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico room on Palma, the traditional Mexican breakfast institution where hot chocolate.

OrderThe hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada when in season July to September.

TipOpen 08:00-18:00; the Centro location seats four floors and still queues by 09:30 on Sunday morning.

Directions

Cafe de Tacuba ★ 4.3

$$ Traditional MexicanCentro Historico

Cafe de Tacuba in Mexico City is the Mollinedo family's 1912 Centro Historico room on Tacuba, the 17th-century palace dining hall that runs every traditional.

OrderEnchiladas de mole verde; tamales served with frothy chocolate caliente.

TipDaily 08:00-23:00; the strolling student trio on Sunday afternoons is the move for the room's full character.

Directions

Mercado de San Juan ★ 4.6

$ MarketCentro Historico

Mercado de San Juan in Mexico City is the gourmet specialty market on Ernesto Pugibet in Centro Historico, the city's only such market with exotic meats.

Directions

Expendio de Maiz ★ 4.6

$ MexicanRoma Norte

Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is the Roma Norte heirloom-corn counter where a single blue-corn tlacoyo runs about 70 pesos, hand-pressed daily on a comal.

TryTwo blue-corn tlacoyos

Directions

Mercado Medellin ★ 4.3

$ MarketRoma Norte

Mercado Medellin in Mexico City is the Roma Sur Latin American import market on Campeche, the pan-Latin grocery hall with Cuban, Colombian and Argentine.

Directions

Mercado Roma ★ 4.3

$ MarketRoma Norte

Mercado Roma in Mexico City is the Roma Norte gourmet food hall on Queretaro, a three-floor market with 50-plus vendors covering Mexican, Italian, Venezuelan.

Directions

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