History

Pomeranian goose is a regional pride; the breed is raised across rural Kashubia and Greater Poland, with the peak season running from St Martin's Day (November 11) through the New Year. The golce-and-goose pairing belongs to the Kashubian Sunday-roast tradition: roast goose served with golce, a buckwheat-and-flour dumpling unique to the region. Restauracja Filharmonia and Goldwasser run the most committed Gdańsk versions when in season.

Common allergens: Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 1 whole young Pomeranian goose, 4 to 5kg, giblets reserved
  • 2 tbsp coarse sea salt
  • 2 tbsp dried marjoram
  • 1 tbsp black pepper
  • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 3 medium apples (Boskoop or Cox), cored and quartered
  • 3 firm pears, cored and quartered
  • 150g dried plums (prunes)
  • 100g dried cranberries
  • 1 tbsp whole allspice berries
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 500ml dry red wine
  • 500ml chicken or goose stock
  • 2 tbsp honey
  • 1.2kg floury potatoes (for golce dumplings)
  • 300g cooked mashed potato
  • 120g potato starch
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 100g unsalted butter, melted, to finish

Method

  1. Two days ahead: rub the goose inside and out with salt, marjoram, pepper and crushed garlic. Place breast-side up on a rack over a tray, uncovered, in the fridge for 24 to 36 hours.
  2. Heat the oven to 180C. Bring the goose to room temperature 1 hour before roasting. Stuff the cavity with apples, pears, half the prunes, half the cranberries, allspice and bay.
  3. Place breast-side down on a rack in a deep roasting tray. Pour 250ml of the wine and 250ml of the stock into the tray.
  4. Roast 45 minutes. Turn the goose breast-side up and prick the skin all over the breast and legs with a skewer to release fat.
  5. Continue roasting at 160C for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, basting every 30 minutes. Internal temperature at the thigh should reach 75C.
  6. Brush the breast with honey for the last 15 minutes; raise the oven to 200C to crisp the skin.
  7. While the goose roasts, make the golce. Peel the raw potatoes and grate finely; squeeze hard in a tea towel to remove liquid. Combine with the cooked mash, potato starch and salt.
  8. Shape into 6 to 8 oval dumplings the size of a small egg. Simmer in salted water for 25 minutes; they float when done.
  9. Rest the goose 25 minutes. Strain the pan juices into a pan, skim the fat, reduce by half with the remaining wine and stock. Add the remaining prunes and cranberries; simmer 5 minutes.
  10. Carve the goose. Serve with golce dressed with melted butter and ladled over with the rich pan sauce.

Tip from the editors. A Pomeranian or Kartuzy goose is fattier than commercial supermarket geese; render that fat slowly. Pricking the skin and turning the bird halfway through is what gives the crisp finish.

Where to eat pomeranian goose with golce

Pomeranian goose with golce in Gdańsk

Restauracja Filharmonia ★ 4.2

Modern Polish$$

Restauracja Filharmonia is a modern polish room in Gdansk. Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

Why locals love it: On Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, reached by a footbridge most visitors skip; the most committed Kashubian kitchen in the centre.

Tip: Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.

ul. Ołowianka 1, 80-751 Gdańsk

Goldwasser ★ 4.1

Polish$$main-town

Goldwasser in Gdańsk sits in a 15th-century tenement on Długie Pobrzeże, named for the liqueur first distilled in the city in 1598. Located in Main Town.

Signature: Duck, Edible-gold steak

Order: Duck with red cabbage, with a glass of Original Danziger Goldwasser as the closer.

Tip: The Motława-side terrace from May to September is the best seat in the room.

ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, 80-888 Gdańsk Book →

Witómë ★ 4.3

Modern Polish$$

Witómë on Piwna behind St Mary's is Gdańsk's centrally-located Kashubian dining room plating the regional fish soup and a 07:30 breakfast counter.

Why locals love it: The only centrally-located Kashubian dining room left, on Piwna behind St Mary's; visitors hunting regional fish soup walk past the Piwna door for the louder Długa rooms.

Tip: Order the Kashubian fish soup; the breakfast counter opens 07:30 and is the calmest service.

ul. Piwna 36/39, 80-831 Gdańsk

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