History

Pipian predates mole poblano and uses the older technique: seeds ground to a paste and let down with stock, rather than a long list of fried and blended ingredients. Green pipian leans on pumpkin seed, tomatillo, epazote and serrano; red pipian swaps in dried chiles and sometimes sesame. In Puebla it is served alongside mole rather than instead of it, and the enchiladas de tres moles at Comal put pipian verde, pipian rojo and mole poblano on one plate so you can taste the difference. La Casa del Mendrugo and Casareyna both hold it on the menu year round.

Common allergens: Sesame

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 50 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 200g hulled pumpkin seeds
  • 400g tomatillos, husked
  • 2 serrano chiles
  • 1/2 white onion
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 small bunch coriander
  • 2 sprigs epazote if you can find it
  • 700ml chicken stock
  • 2 tbsp lard or oil
  • Salt
  • 4 chicken legs, poached

Method

  1. Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until they puff and start to pop, about four minutes. Do not let them brown.
  2. Boil the tomatillos and serranos for five minutes until they turn olive green.
  3. Blend the toasted seeds with the tomatillos, chiles, onion, garlic, coriander and 200ml of the stock until completely smooth.
  4. Heat the lard in a heavy pan and fry the purée for eight minutes, stirring constantly, until it darkens slightly.
  5. Let it down with the remaining stock, add the epazote and simmer for fifteen minutes, stirring often.
  6. Season, then add the poached chicken and warm it through in the sauce.

Tip from the editors. Never let the pipián boil hard once the seeds are in. It splits, and no amount of stirring brings it back together.

Where to eat pipián

Pipián in Puebla

La Casa del Mendrugo ★ 4.4

Pueblan$$$centro-historicoMon-Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:00-18:00Book 2 to 4 days ahead

La Casa del Mendrugo cooks mole poblano and pipian verde inside a former Jesuit college on 4 Sur in Puebla, with a museum and a jazz room attached.

Tip: The mole here runs about 190 pesos and the ticket includes the museum, which is a rare pairing in the Centro Historico.

Restaurante Casareyna ★ 4.6

Pueblan$$$centro-historicoDaily 08:00-22:30Book 2 to 5 days ahead

Restaurante Casareyna holds a 2026 Michelin Bib Gourmand in Puebla, serving a four-mole tasting plate under Talavera vaults on Privada 2 Oriente.

Tip: Mole plates land between 205 and 245 pesos, which is what the 2026 Bib Gourmand is recognising more than the dining room.

Antojitos Mellos ★ 4.2

Pueblan$$los-remediosDaily 13:00-22:30

Antojitos Mellos is the weekend mole and pipian stop in Barrio de los Remedios, Puebla, with pozole and mole de panza on the board the rest of the week.

Why locals love it: Weekend-only mole and pipián in Barrio de los Remedios, far enough from the Zocalo that the queue stays local.

Tip: Mole and pipián are cooked on Saturday and Sunday only, so a weekday visit gets pozole and mole de panza instead.

Comal ★ 4.4

Pueblan$$centro-historicoDaily 08:00-24:00Until 00:00 daily

Comal looks straight at Puebla cathedral from 16 de Septiembre, cooking blue-corn chilaquiles, chanclas, pelonas and mole poblano from breakfast to midnight.

Try: Chanclas and mole poblano

Tip: The kitchen runs to midnight seven days a week, which is unusual for a Centro dining room of this quality.

Restaurante La Noria ★ 4.5

Pueblan$$$$la-noriaMon-Wed 08:00-23:30; Thu-Sat 13:30-23:30; Sun 13:30-18:00Book 1 week in nogada season ahead

Restaurante La Noria works the grounds of an old hacienda in Puebla, cooking mole, pipian and huazontles, plus chiles en nogada from July to September.

Tip: From July to September the hacienda fills with chiles en nogada bookings, so reserve at least a week out in August.

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